The Umbrella Movement

As a reminder, my internship with the U.S. State Department ended two months ago.  The following is my own personal assessment, I am in no way associated with the U.S. government, and do not speak on their behalf.

If you had told me that during my first few months abroad, Hong Kong would erupt in protest, I would have laughed at you. And yet, here we are, thirty days after the initial outcries, with both sides showing no sign of giving up.  There are many fantastic reports providing blow-by-blow analysis and historical context (I recommend this, this, and this), so I won’t write about that.

Instead, I want to focus on what my anthropology professor calls the “Civic Awakening of Hong Kong’s Youth.” For HKUST students, simply being a student is difficult. Courses are designed in a hybrid East-meets-West education system; lots of lectures and memorization, but then complex application of knowledge on exams and in projects. Compounding this, most, if not all, classes are graded on a curve, adding a competitive edge to achievement. The most popular hangout on weekends and holidays is the library. These are perhaps some of the least politically minded people I have ever met; a HKUST newspaper politely called the student population “politically apathetic”, most others at Hong Kong University or City University simply say that UST students care more about their grades than anything else.

And yet, slowly, over the course of several days, my classrooms began emptying, hallways were littered with posters, and it seemed like every other person was wearing a yellow ribbon. And, to their credit, each of my professors took this in stride. Everyone issued warnings about safety, especially after tear gas was used, relaxed attendance policies, and began recording lectures. Everyone in class were constantly checking their phones, eagerly looking at the latest news on Whatsapp or Twitter. Protesters armed with phone holders to #protestselfies with abandon. My Facebook feed is now a three-way tie between pictures of parties, babies, and protests. What began as some dissatisfied students sitting in a park doing homework has risen to the level of international news, at a time when Ebola was (is) raging over West Africa. This is no mean feat.

Most of my classmates are not members of the Hong Kong super-elite. They struggle to pay rent, survive on instant noodles and disgusting cafeteria food, and are working hard to prepare for what is likely to be a tough future. They were born in Hong Kong. They grew up in post-handover Hong Kong. They will battle corruption, crony-capitalism, and fierce competition from peers all over the world. They are, first and foremost, Hong Kong-ers. They are good kids, struggling in a time of transition, both for Hong Kong and Mainland China. For the past month, they have shown their strength.

My personal opinion doesn’t really matter here. As many times as I’ve gone out to interview students and citizens at protest sites, as many news articles and twitter feeds I follow, I’m still not getting the complete picture. And that’s okay. It’s not my fight.  Whether or not the Beijing government will allow Hong Kong residents to freely elect their representatives is, ultimately, one small piece of a much larger trend. Ripple effects are being felt in Mainland-Taiwan relations. Mainland visitors in Hong Kong have a variety of views, which they will bring back to their hometowns. China faces many challenges in the coming years, which will undoubtedly have global consequences. Watch this space, because these young students have potentially kicked-off a global phenomenon.

加油科大！

University of Stress & Tension: 5 Ways to Make Life at HKUST Easier

Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (also known as the University of Stress and Tension) is one of the world's leading academic institutions, and is widely recognized as one of the top universities in Asia. Their science, engineering, and business programs are incredibly well respected, and anyone admitted to the school should be proud. That being said, there is absolutely no reason that any UW-Madison student should feel unprepared or unwelcome on this campus. Below are five tips I've learned during my transition into life at HKUST.


1. Don't stress over enrollment. 

Unlike Madison, where you have the ability to select courses months ahead of the beginning of the semester, here at HKUST, everyone enrolls the week before classes start. Seats are often limited, but throughout the enrollment period and first two weeks of class, students are constantly adding and dropping courses, so don't worry if you end up on the wait list. However, I have heard that laboratory classes and math courses are especially difficult to get into, so plan accordingly. Additionally, if you are planning on enrolling in any upper level courses, be prepared to submit special enrollment authorization requests proving that you have completed the necessary prerequisites. For example, I needed to explain that I have already taken courses in molecular biology (biochemistry), microbiology, and introductory genetics to enroll in my 4000-level plant biotechnology course. Also, while HKUST officially states that all courses are taught in English, I ran into a number of courses offered by the Humanities Department that were only taught in Cantonese or Mandarin, so double check the requirements before enrolling!

 
2. Don't stress about transferring your credits. 

I recommend talking with your advisor(s) before you leave for HKUST, and creating a general plan for the types of courses you hope to take while abroad. While course offerings differ from semester to semester, and sometimes you need to make last-minute changes, it is nice to know some general requirements for courses within your major. If, for whatever reason your first advisor doesn't seem willing or able to help, don't be afraid to reach out to other advisors within the department. Remember, everyone at UW-Madison wants you to succeed, and it is generally recognized that the courses offered at HKUST are roughly equivalent to UW-Madison courses. However, if you are really worried, take a look at list of previously approved course transfers on the IAP website.


3. Remember: English is the official language, not the first language.

HKUST is a wonderfully diverse campus with students and faculty from around the world. Everyone has different backgrounds, perspectives, and strengths, and I think that adds a lot to the campus community. And, while English is the official classroom language, it is pretty much everyone's second (or third or fourth) language. All of the professors are proficient in English, however, the can get flustered in front of a classroom of 70 students. Be patient, and don't be afraid to ask for clarification. Outside of class, it seems like most conversations are conducted in a variety of languages, including, but not limited to, English. Emails, event advertisements, meetings in the dorms, and casual conversations will always be in Chinese (usually Cantonese), but often include English translations. I try to remember that this is all a part of the Hong Kong experience, and don't allow it to affect my mood. No one is intentionally excluding me, they are simply more comfortable speaking in Chinese.


4. Get over the awkwardness and talk to people.

Yes, it is weird to get up and introduce yourself to a stranger. I get it. There are a few tricks to making this less awkward (open with a question, ask for a suggestion, comment on the weather, etc) but by and large I find the entire process of making new friends uncomfortable, and that's okay. I don't need to be best friends with everyone, but having one or two friends in each class makes my life much easier and less stressful. Of course, HKUST has some unique challenges: the dorm room doors are too heavy to block open, it is difficult to break join a Cantonese conversation, and there isn't really a good coffee shop hangout on campus, however none of these are insurmountable. I find that a smile, a bit of humor, and an honest desire to hear about other peoples' lives works wonders. Also, if you are looking to make local friends, you aren't going to find them at Lan Kwai Fong, go explore some other neighborhoods!

5. Schedule time for yourself. 

Being an exchange student is stressful. Adjusting to a new culture (along with taking challenging courses, keeping up with all of the administrative requirements, applying for internships and jobs, and trying to develop a social life!) is difficult. I try to keep all of the craziness in balance by taking time to relax, reflect, and renew my energy. For me, this could be an half-hour work out mid-day to psych myself up for my 5 PM class, a fresh cup of fair trade coffee from my french press in the morning, sitting down to write a journal entry (or blog post!), or taking a book out to the beach for some reading. I also limit my time spent on social media or skyping with friends back home. I find that if I am constantly checking Facebook or calling home more than once or twice a week, I become homesick and stress myself out more.

That's it for now! I'm still learning as I go along, but I'm having a wonderful time. People have been wonderful and welcoming, I'm excited about a number of my classes, and Hong Kong is a fascinating place to be living right now.

Welcome to Hong Kong!

So... I should have probably written this last week, or the week before. Its nearly a month into the school year, and already I don't know where the time has gone. It is insane. Anyway... I'm going to try to capture some of my favorite moments and first impressions of the city this week, and next week post more about my school.

1. Arriving in Guangzhou after a 40 hour train ride was... difficult. I was exhausted, smelly, unable to communicate with anyone, and incredibly frustrated. Thankfully, within a couple of hours I was on a quiet, clean, and spacious bullet train to Hong Kong. I love bullet trains... this felt like heaven.

2. My joy was made complete after arriving at HKUST, taking a shower, and finally having a bed that was not only not on a moving train, but was also far enough away from the ceiling so I can sit up in bed. Its the little things.

3. There are restaurants, coffee shops, and malls EVERYWHERE! It is kind of glorious. At any given moment, I have access to caffein, air conditioning, and all kinds of food. One thing I've really missed in past trips to the mainland is having access to a variety of cuisines. The ability to eat authentic and local Chinese food AND tacos AND Pad Thai AND hipster salads AND Italian pasta AND fusion food is amazing.

4. While I came here knowing that Cantonese is the main dialect, I wasn't expecting Cantonese to be so completely incomprehensible, Mandarin Chinese to be so little spoken, and for English to be so wide spread. Locals (with the major exception of cab drivers) are very likely going to be able to speak excellent English.

5. If you need to interact with someone who doesn't speak English (or Mandarin) always fall back on pointing, body language, smiling, and laughing. Even if you don't get your point across, you will at least make a positive (if strange) impression.

6. You can usually guess at how wealthy someone is by their watch. No one has cars, apartments are small, so lots of wealthy Hong Kong natives spend a significant amount of money on watches and jewelry. On campus, backpacks and shoes usually are a good proxy.

7. While the library on campus is nice for quick study/AC breaks, the Central Public Library is absolutely stunning. It is centrally located, near a subway (MTR) station, has lots of books, computers, magazines, tables, seats, and outlets! Best of all, if you are like me, it is almost completely silent, despite being very busy.

8. The subway! This is, hands down, the best public transportation system I have ever experienced. While I do wish that the buses that connect the campus to the city ran more frequently, the subway is flawless... even during rush hour.

9. At first, I wasn't sold on Cantonese food. But I think that had more to do with the poorly prepared cafeteria food than the cuisine itself. Out it the city, I am overwhelmed by all of the amazing smells and foods that I want to try.

10. However, I have found some unexpected (and rather unpleasant) surprises. On campus there is a cafeteria that lets you choose what ingredients to put into a bowl of noodle soup, and usually I order a handful of fish balls, some zucchini, some bok choi, and maybe some tofu. Except, I don't know any Cantonese... so I usually point at the small sample displayed on the counter. Unfortunately, I didn't point at the fish balls (which are like ping pong balls, small and white), I pointed at the cheese balls. In my defense, they look nearly identical, except for the small orange speckles. But they definitely don't taste the same.

11. Hong Kong milk tea is significantly less sweet than the Taiwanese milk tea (with tapioca pearls) served in the mainland. I'm guessing the British influence has something to do with this.

12. Paying for things with coins is weird.  I am constantly forgetting about my coins, and now I have a pretty good stockpile. Hong Kong has a different currency than the mainland, and so they issue different bills and coins, which seem to be (surprise!) modeled after British currency.

13. One more colonial leftover: they drive on the left side of the road! I am always forgetting about this, and looking the wrong way before crossing the street. Fortunately, the Hong Kong city planners have prepared for foreign tourists by helpfully panting "Look Left" or "Look Right" on nearly every crosswalk.

14. Hong Kong covers a relatively small, mountainous area, so everything is built vertically instead of horizontally. There are lots and lots of stairs and elevators to navigate every day.

15. People actually wait in lines here! It is amazing, one of those small things that I didn't really appreciate before.
16. No one pays any attention to me! I'm not called out, no one stares, and I have yet to hear anyone call me a lao wai.

17. This is a fantastic city to explore on any budget, but it is very easy to go over budget. I'm trying hard to be aware of my own limits... and avoiding most of the cool stationary stores or yarn stores around town.

18. There is so much to see and do here! I've been "station hopping", i.e. picking a random subway station, getting off, and exploring new neighborhoods. Thus far, I've covered a lot of central Hong Kong Island and a bit of Kowloon, but I hope to begin venturing out into the New Territories this weekend.

19. Monsoons are pretty common this time of year, so the weather seems to jump from beautiful, sunny and warm, to pouring rain and wicked winds pretty quickly. You need a good rain jacket or a sturdy umbrella to stay dry.

20. I've also begun switching over from using my nice (but bulky) camera to my iPod. Logistically, in a city as crowded as Hong Kong, this is easier. I also want to try and make a point of distinguishing myself from the tourists. I enjoy doing tourist-y things, but I also want to be respectful of the others around me as I begin venturing out into less well-known areas. That being said, feel free to follow me on Instagram and take a more informal view of the city.

Tashi Delek བཀྲ་ཤིས་བདེ་ལེགས། from Garze!

Alright. I'm sorry that it's taken me so long to write this, but, in my defense, the past few weeks have been absolutely insane. I've accomplished a couple of life-long goals, and bumbled into several adventures that I hadn't anticipated. I've been elated, exhausted, and ill. Travelled thousands of kilometers (both horizontally and vertically) on buses, cars, bikes, bullet and regular trains dragging over 70 pounds of luggage. And somehow managed to land safely at Hong Kong University of Science and Technology. But I'm not going to really go into my experiences at HKUST yet. For one, I've really only had a couple of classes, so I don't have a feel for how the year will be academically. Additionally, I have only just begun to explore Hong Kong. There is just so much to talk about, so it deserves its own post.

When I was in middle school, I developed a minor obsession with Tibetan people, Tibetan Buddhism, and the regional politics. While I won't go into the Tibetan independence issue here, there is ongoing conflict and rising tension in all areas where Tibetans are concentrated (here, here, and here). Partially because of this, the Chinese government has prohibited foreigners from entering the Tibetan Autonomous Region UNLESS they are with an approved, arranged tour group. These tours are expensive, limited, and very tightly controlled... in essence, ensuring that visitors have little to no unsupervised interaction with native Tibetans. My situation is further complicated by the fact that the Chinese government has repeatedly refused requests by our consulate to allow Foreign Service Officers into the region... so they probably wouldn't be happy about me entering the region.

Fortunately, not all Tibetans live in Tibet. There is a sizable population in Chengdu living in the aptly named Tibetan Quarter. There are lots of shops and a few Tibetan restaurants, however everything has a heavy focus on religious iconography, rather than handicrafts or gifts. This is, in part, because many monks migrate to Chengdu to pick up the supplies to refurbish or establish their own local temple. So, if you are ever in need of a six foot tall Buddha statue or a set of Tibetan monk robes, check out this district. Below is Maddy, my roommate this summer holding up the prayer flags that she bought for roughly $1 by the major intersection at the center of the district.

After my internship at the consulate ended, I traveled to the Ganzi (or Garze in Tibetan) Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in northwest Sichuan. Although not given as much autonomy (or attention) as the TAR, the Autonomous Prefecture was set up in recognition of the fact that the majority of the citizens in this part of the province are ethnically Tibetan. Don't ask me why they weren't just lumped into the TAR... I have no idea. At any rate, foreigners are basically free to travel to any city within the prefecture that has been "opened to tourists," meaning there are "adequate facilities to house guests." If you try to travel to cities that are not yet opened, you run the risk of being forcibly removed by the police, and yes, this does happen. I talked to one guy who was told to leave a city he was trying to stay in overnight as he motorbiked from Xi'an to Tagong in Ganzi. Also, keep in mind that the government reserves the right to forbid entry to foreigners at any time, without prior notice... this has happened multiple times in the past.

Anyway, I took an awful 8 hour bus ride from Chengdu to Kangding, the largest city in the prefecture, and largely regarded as the major starting point for all Tibetan adventures. There is exactly one two-lane highway that connects the two cities, and it winds around some of the most incredible mountainside scenery I've ever seen. At least, it is gorgeous upon reflection... because for most of the trip, I was incredibly uncomfortable and ill. August is the end of the rainy season, and so the road had been heavily damaged by landslides, and torn apart by construction projects. At one point, I realized that we had driven over four hours without once driving in a straight line over smooth roads. Needless to say, by the time I got off in Kangding, I was very excited. 

All of the travel guides recommend spending a few days in Kangding, not because it is an especially interesting city, but because you need to acclimate yourself to the elevation before heading any further out into the region. In and of itself, Kangding is pretty mediocre. Beyond climbing the Paoma Mountain (famous in China because of the Kangding Love Song) and checking out the Tibetan gifts (which are pretty much exactly the same things on offer in Chengdu) there isn't a whole lot to do. I split my time between hiking and exploring, and hanging out at the Zhilam Hostel, where I stayed. This is an excellent little hostel located up above the city, run by an American couple, employing lots of locals (who are incredibly kind and smart, you should definitely hang out with them and talk in a mixture of English, Chinese, and Tibetan!), and it serves coffee! What more could you possibly want?

Next, I needed to find a driver who would be willing to take me to the town of Tagong. While the town is open to tourists, it is slightly off the beaten path, so there aren't any busses that go there. On my way there, I paid for a guy to drive me and his sister (girlfriend? I wasn't really clear on this... he spoke Chinese with a thick accent). I later found out I had been fleeced, but the ride was relatively comfortable, and the scenery so amazing that I really didn't care. 

Tagong is located in a beautiful stretch of grasslands, home to actual real-live yak herders, surrounded by some of the highest mountains in Sichuan, and hosts one of the most important monasteries in the region. It is also incredibly high up the the mountains, roughly 3,500 km. If you look on the map, Kangding and Tagong are fairly close together... however, even with my driver speeding basically the entire way there, it took three hours for us to navigate the winding roads up the mountainside... not that I'm complaining. I was glued to my window most of the drive.

Here, I stayed at the Khampa Cafe owned by a American-Tibetan couple who work to support the local community through treks, trips, and tourism. Again, this was a wonderful experience that I whole-heartedly recommend to any interested travelers... and they have coffee!

And, as much as I had a wonderful time here... the trip was slightly troubling. Twice on my trip in, my bus was pulled over as policemen boarded to examine all of the passengers. Kangding is becoming increasingly developed as more and more Han Chinese move west, creating a city that is more "Chinese" than "Tibetan." I heard from many travelers that this is much worse in Lhasa. 

I met lots of friendly travelers from around Europe and a few from the States, and none of us seemed to face many problems with locals. In fact, most people (outside of the super-touristy areas) were very eager to meet and talk to foreign visitors. However, they didn't seem to like the Chinese visitors very much. In Tagong especially, each day a new tour bus would deposit 20-30 new tourists armed with trekking packs and DSLR cameras. They swarmed the temple, the stupa on the hill, the touristy horse-riding area, and the shops, proudly finishing their day with hundreds of impressive photos, a new strand of beads, and a fine woolen scarf (like those patterned pashmina scarves you can buy ANYWHERE... I have no idea how they ended up here or why they were so popular). They climb back onto their bus, and continue on their journey, leaving the disgruntled Tibetans to pick up the bottles and wrappers left over their streets and sacred hills. 

Also... you may have noticed that most of my pictures don't include people. The Tibetan people themselves are fascinating. Everyone wears a mixture of traditional wool coats, skirts, turquoise and coral jewelry, and various Buddhist symbols, along with jeans, nikes, and fake Rolex watches. Many people ride motorbikes that are a cross between a dirt bike and a motorcycle. Each morning, most of the elderly people in town migrate to the temple and form a clockwise procession, rotating the prayer wheels, and praying over their beads. Many of the children speak a smattering of English, while the elders don't speak Mandarin. People still live out on the plains raising yaks, but many of the younger generation hope to learn English and attend university. 

I have talked in the past about how uncomfortable I feel about being stared at, talked about, or asked for a photo. However, I can reasonably expect this behavior to end once I return home, to my own community. For the Tibetans that live in the tourism cities, this is their life. I can't imagine what it is like to be constantly bombarded with curious tourists every day. What's more, Tibetan women are incredibly modest and reserved... and they were often visibly uncomfortable with tourists asking (or, more often, not asking) for their photo. When I openly carried my camera in town, I almost never had anyone come up and talk to me. However, some of my favorite moments came when I had the camera tucked away, and I was simply interacting with these people as a fellow human.

For example, on my first day in Tagong, I saw a sign for yak's milk yogurt, and decided to give it a try. I passed an incredibly old Tibetan woman on my way inside the building and gently said hello to her. Once I made it inside, it wasn't all that clear where I was supposed to head to find the restaurant, so I took a guess and began climbing the stairs. I soon heard the old lady yelling after me in Tibetan, and quickly clambered down and tried to explain myself. After both English and Chinese failed, I fell back to pantomiming eating, which miraculously worked. The lady smiled and lead me into what appeared to be her living room and began scooping out a dixie cup of yogurt topped with a hearty pile of sugar, and handed me a pair of chopsticks. As I sat on her couch, attempting to eat yogurt with two sticks, her daughter and granddaughter came into the house and began eating with me. The daughter spoke a bit of Chinese, so I managed to figure out how much to pay the family and express my thanks, but mostly I just enjoyed watching the three of them interact. And I'm fairly sure they enjoyed watching me bumble around. 

While I definitely consider this to be a defining experience in my life... I hesitate to call it a positive experience. As with so much in the world, the Tibetan people are complicated, they live in a complex society further confounded by greater national and international forces. There are not easy answers, and there is no easy way to process everything I've experienced. Hopefully, someday, I will be able to return and explore these issues in greater depth. At any rate, I will leave you with some prayer flags from the top of the Paoma Mountain. It is said that with every wave, the prayers and blessings printed onto the flag flow out into the universe, spreading good will and compassion. 

Turkey Sandwiches, Pancakes, and Caesar Salad

It started with a turkey sandwich. I’m not sure why it is always the little things, the turkey sandwich and not the turkey dinner, the pancake and not the cheesecake, lasagna and not pasta primavera, but it is always the simple foods that trip me up.

I had a long day at work today, one of those day where you shred 700 business cards, send out six versions of the same report because everyone has one small edit to make, and frantically trying to remember how to convert time zones so that you don’t turn in your homework late… again. I was going to treat myself to some cartoon cat bread. Don’t laugh, that is the actual name of an actual dessert served at our friendly Korean-owned fake-French bakery that specializes in weird hotdog and cheese-based pastries.

Anyway, I was looking for the cat bread, when suddenly I stopped. There, on a scrappy handwritten sign taped above a half-hearted refrigerator section were the characters 火鸡三明治, and I immediately felt a surge of homesickness.  There, hidden amongst the suspect tuna and egg salad was an actual turkey sandwich, and I needed to have it.

For a little context, turkey isn’t something Chinese people eat. Actually, I don’t think I’ve even seen turkey available anywhere in Chengdu before. There is lots of pork and chicken, some beef, heck even duck and yak are pretty common, but no turkey. And to be honest, I didn’t really mind. Turkey isn’t one of those things I commonly go out of my way for. Sure, I eat a couple of slices on Thanksgiving, maybe buy a package of lunch meat every so often, but that’s pretty much it.  So, I was surprised when I was suddenly seized by this absolute desire to eat this turkey sandwich that had definitely been sitting there, soaking in its own juices for several hours.

In the bakery, I picked up the little saran wrapped box. Thickly cut stale white bread, some sad iceberg lettuce, slimy tomatoes, something green… possibly cucumbers, a white substance I guess was either mayo or cheese, and then a few scraggly pieces of turkey. It didn’t even look appetizing then and there, but I still needed to have it.

I carried the box to the register, sadly forked over twenty-two kuai (roughly $3, and about ten kuai more than I would have paid for a good bowl of noodles), and ran back to my apartment. I unwrapped the box, tried not to drip, whatever was dripping off the sandwich onto my bed, and inhaled the entire thing.

It was terrible. I mean, beyond forgiveness bad. I’m not sure how a single sandwich can simultaneously be stale, dry, and soaking wet. I can’t tell you what it tasted like, except that it was bad. I have no idea if that white substance was supposed to be cheese or mayo, but it didn’t really taste like either. The tomato immediately launched itself off of the bread and onto my pants, and crumbs flew everywhere. It was gone in less than two minutes.

I don’t really know why I keep doing this to myself. Last week it was pancakes so laughably bad that I didn’t quite know what to do with them. The week before was some terrible Chinese approximation of a burger and fries. Don’t even get me started on Chinese ice cream…

I am perfectly content to eat Chinese food most of the time. I struggle a bit with breakfast here, but that’s because there isn’t a 油条place within walking distance of my apartment. I can choose from over five different hand-cut noodle places within a ten minute walking distance of the consulate. I have a list of classic Sichuanese dishes that I can order pretty much anywhere. And when that fails, point and pray usually works pretty well. The dumpling lady who works in my building may not know me by name, but she definitely knows my order.

So, why do I insist on eating over-priced poorly cooked Western food? I know it will be bad, I can see it coming from a mile away, and yet, sometimes I can’t stop myself. Again, its never the giant feast that trips me up, always the humble snack. It’s the brownie that reminds me of baking “from scratch” with my mother. It’s the salad that reminds me of all the times my little sister ate an entire bag of Caesar salad. It’s the cup of coffee that smells like home. 

I never feel more homesick than when I’m eating food that is just not quite the same as back home.

Being a White Girl in China

Alright, I'm going to preface this post by saying I've never ever felt afraid or threatened while traveling in China. But I have felt uncomfortable. And I have felt awkward. And I definitely have been angered.

This summer, I've been taking this international studies class on examining and navigating different cultures. A part of that was examining how women are treated in different cultures. Some of my (female) classmates interning in parts of Africa or Southeast Asia have had some pretty scary/threatening things said to them. No one (to my knowledge) has been hurt, but the differences in the ways women are treated were pretty astounding. We looked at how these students reacted to the situation, how that reflects our different cultural backgrounds, and tried to be reasonable. There are no easy answers to women's rights around the world. Some things are deep rooted, and to a certain extent, lasting change must come from within a culture.

That being said, the I've been reflecting a lot on my personal experiences from this summer and last summer. For instance, I realized that I've never gone into a Chinese bar without at least one other American guy. If I need to ask directions, I will almost always ask an older lady or a college-age girl. At my internships, I've talked to female coworkers much more than male coworkers. And when I do public outreach events at the consulate, there is always a small group of male students who I desperately wish would stop talking to me.

Like I said, I've never been threatened... but I have been propositioned. Lots of times. And most of the time, it doesn't seem like a big deal.

It's okay, they are just drunk, eventually they will get the point and go away. That was a little strange, but maybe he was just trying to be friendly... English isn't his first language, he probably meant nothing by it. Walk a little faster, and hopefully you can cross the street and avoid this pack of guys. Keep your head down, don't react. Where do I live? Oh, just an apartment over there, but I've got some work to finish up before heading home... Would I date a Chinese guy? Well, I already have a boyfriend... yes, he is back in the States... No, I don't think I need a boyfriend in China.

Added up, I realize that I spend a great deal of time in China feeling uncomfortable. It is lots of little things; a group of men staring as you walk to work, questions about how free (read: loose) American women are, its the assumption that girls don't study math and science because they just aren't as smart as men, the hyper-feminized imagery in Chinese media, and the way in which taxi drivers ignore me and listen to a male coworker. It is this grating force in the background of my Chinese experience. It isn't the worst thing that has ever happened, but it definitely contributes to my struggles here.

Right or wrong , feminist or not, this is the reality. I don't want to scare anyone off... truly the vast majority of Chinese people are wonderful and friendly. This is an amazing country, and I have had two fantastic summers. But, I do want people to be aware. Things aren't nearly as bad here as in some other places, but it is the little things, day in and day out, that make the difference.

The Chengdu Checklist

After I received my internship offer from the United States Consulate in Chengdu, I immediately started googling. Mostly, I just didn't recognize the city, and needed to figure out where it was. When I found out that Chengdu is pretty much the biggest city in Southwest China, the gateway to Tibet, and in Sichuan Province, I became really excited. Very quickly, I became obsessed with learning more about all about this city, the cool things to do here, and where to travel outside of the city. 

Now, I'm two weeks from the end of my internship. Two of the other interns have already left, my roommate is leaving on Monday, and most of the rest of us will be gone by the 15th. I've had so many amazing experiences, hundreds of photos, and many more wonderful memories. I hope to share a handful with you as I work my way through my little Chengdu Checklist.

1) PANDAS!!!

Sichuan is actually one of the last places where wild pandas exist. It is also home to the Panda Breeding Research Center and the Bifengxia Panda Natural Reserve. Maddy, Michael, and I took a Thursday off a couple of weeks ago to make the two and a half hour trek to the larger Bifengxia reserve. Leaving from our apartment at 6:30 AM, we (barely) caught the 7:10 AM bus to Yan'an, the closest city to the base. We reached the city around 9:30, negotiated with a slightly crazy taxi driver to shuttle us up the mountain to the research base, purchased our (student price!) tickets, and were on a park shuttle bus to see the pandas by 10.  

Fortunately for us, it was still relatively cool when we got to the park, so most of the pandas were still roaming around, doing important panda things. For the toddler pandas at panda kindergarden, this mostly involved tumbling over each other and chewing on bamboo shoots. Adult pandas seem to split their days between eating bamboo, napping, scratching their butts (much to the disappointment of the Chinese tourists), and sleeping in trees. 

They were pretty adorable. However, by the end of this trip, I was feeling pretty sick. I'm pretty sure I wound up with the trifecta of common traveler's ailments; food poisoning, migraine headaches, and serious dehydration. I want send a shout out to Maddy for helping get me down the mountain, and to Michael for buying me an awesome panda shirt and being a good sport about the situation.

2) Mountain Climbing

One of the reasons we chose to go to the Bifengxia Reserve rather than the Research Base, was because we had heard that the Bifengxia gorge was beautiful. Even in my desperate, dehydrated state, I was amazed by how beautiful the area was. The picture above is of one of two trails we followed after seeing the pandas. That particular trail led us past the source of one of the dozens of waterfalls in the area. 

3) Temple Visits

I've visited a few different temples in Chengdu, and I've had pretty mixed results. Some, like the Green Ram Temple (which all three pictures are of) are very touristy and crowded. Generally, you aren't allowed to take photos inside temples, but the really big popular ones have become very lax about these rules, instead focusing on preventing you from taking pictures of the statues and alters themselves. 

My favorite temples are in small monasteries. Cheap to get into, less crowded, quieter, populated by quiet monks and nuns, and much more authentic. Chengdu has some really fantastic Tibetan-Buddhist, Taoist, and regular Chinese Buddhist fusion temples. There are also a bunch of Mosques around the city, but those don't really seem very open to visitors, so I haven't tried to enter one yet.

4) Fine Dining

As much as I love Chinese street food, sometimes you want to get dressed up and go out to a fancy restaurant. Some of the interns, Consulate staff, and I went out to Yu's Family Kitchen, where we had a 32 (!) course meal that was a modern interpretation on classic Sichuan flavors. Absolutely everything was fabulous. 

I really like using food as an excuse to get people together, go to a new part of town, and have a lot of fun. For example, after spending 15 minutes trying to catch a cab during rush hour, we all decided to ride the subway. Even in Shanghai, I have never been in a subway car (or bus or train) that was that crowded. After squeezing our way out, we proceeded to wander around for another ten minutes, trying to find the restaurant. For some reason, they don't have a real address. Instead, they just tell you to go to the Wide and Narrow Alleys (another famous tourist spot in Chengdu) and it will be right near the entrance. By some miracle, we managed to find the place, despite the fact that they don't even have the name of the restaurant posted outside of their door!

Also, I want to thank Tahn, one of the Consulate officers who kindly paid for all of the interns' meals. All of the officer staff have been wonderfully kind to us, as they realize that we are poor college students, at an unpaid internship where we must pay for transportation, housing, and food out of pocket. Actually, a number of the officers were shocked that we weren't paid and didn't receive any help from the State Department. Apparently, this varies significantly from post to post, and we must have just gotten unlucky with our post. At any rate, I don't regret the decision to come here at all, even if my wallet is feeling a little light for the time being, long-term, I'm betting this experience will pay off.