50 Things to Know About Hong Kong

1) Hong Kong is not the same as the rest of China. They are very very proud of their individuality and identity.

2) Mandarin won't get you very far here. Character recognition (especially traditional characters) is helpful, but not essential. More people speak working English, or are more willing to speak English than Mandarin with you.

3) Spaghetti is sold everywhere, but it is not at all the same as the spaghetti you had growing up in the U.S. Don't be fooled.

4) Cheese, yogurt, and milk are abundantly available, but horribly expensive.

5) There are five major meals; breakfast, dim sum, lunch, high tea (yum cha), and dinner. Dim sum overlaps with early lunch/brunch time, and yum cha is similar to a late lunch. Generally, you should pick any three meals, not eat all five (especially if you don't want to gain a ton of weight).

Picture (reluctantly) taken by the waitress

6) French toast is deep fried bread filled with peanut butter and covered in condensed milk. I have no idea how this relates to the French toast I grew up with (bread dipped in egg and cooked on a griddle) but it is AMAZING.

7) Most Hong Konger's eat out for most meals. Generally, their apartments are too small to hold working kitchens, so they don't really have another option.

8) Locals take food very seriously. You absolutely should take advantage of this.

9) Unfortunately, HKUST cafeteria food is pretty much universally disappointing. Leave campus for as many meals as possible.

10) There area multitude of ways to dress up a simple bowl of ramen, for those times where you can't leave campus to eat. Cheap, easy, and tasty :)

Thanks for the pic Will!

11) SNACKS. Between the local and Japanese snacks, there are plenty of little treats to munch on as you are studying. My favorites are the freeze dried squid tentacles and waffles with peanut butter.

12) Facebook, Gmail, Twitter, the NYT, and information on "sensitive issues" are all freely available in Hong Kong.

13) However, most people don't use Facebook or Twitter. Currently, Whatsapp is the most popular, but LINE and a few other apps are gaining in popularity.

14) Press censorship is less obvious in Hong Kong than in the Mainland, but due to increasing pressure from the central government, self-censorship is on the rise.

15) The most important holiday is Chinese New Year, the exact date of which varies from year to year because it is calculated via a lunar calendar. Generally students are given a few days off of school to return home to spend time with their families.

Thanks Alvin for the photo!

16) In the weeks before the holiday, dozens of New Years markets spring up around the city. Check out the flowers, traditional crafts, and crazy toys for children on display.

17) I also highly recommend going to one of the dozens of little local temples and purchase a CNY offering set. Mine included a dozen sticks of incense, two candles, and a bundle of spirit money. If you are quiet and respectful, the little elderly volunteers in charge of the temple will help you successfully complete your offering.

18) On the night before CNY and the day of, nearly all restaurants and shops are closed. Many shops and restaurants remained closed for a few days afterwards too, so stock up on food beforehand.

19) Late April to Mid-September is the unbearably hot and humid season. Air con is available in the dorms, but only if you pay for it using your student id. If you arrive for fall semester in late August or early September, you won't receive your id for at least a week, meaning, unless your roommate is a local, you will not have air con during that time. Good luck.

20) Late September through November the weather is glorious and beautiful. Imagine that one gorgeous week of autumn in Madison extending for two months, but without the changing leaves.

Reflected picture by Ben.

21) December through February is wet, rainy, and cold(ish). Most buildings in Hong Kong lack central heating, so be prepared with layers and a good rain coat.

22) March and April are the foggy season. It will slowly warm up, the rain will stop, but the humidity will not ever dissipate. If you are extremely interested in hiking or photography, I strongly encourage you to come fall semester, not spring semester, because the fog obliterates all of the beautiful vistas.

23) And then, just as you are giving up hope because it has been grey and damp for weeks and midterms are looming and everything seems awful, the sun comes back out. Catch your Vitamin D while you can.

24) People don't obsessively talk about the weather like they do back in Wisconsin. Everyone kinda knows what to expect, so why bother?

25) Tin Hau (or Matsu in Mandarin) is the patron goddess of the sea and fishermen. Hong Kong was originally populated by a variety of fishing peoples. Therefore it makes sense that there are a bazillion Tin Hau temples everywhere. Seriously, you can barely walk three blocks without finding another one.

Thanks for the photo Kevin!

26) There are the big famous temples in SOHO and Yau Ma Tei, but the most sacred Tin Hau temple is not far from HKUST. Take bus 91 towards Clear Water Bay, get off at the stop past the roundabout with the green pagoda by the side of the road. Follow the trail up and down the mountains (with a bonus awesome view of Clear Water Bay) for roughly 3-4 hours. At the end of the trail you will glimpse the Joss Bay temple on your right, when you are in front of the Hong Kong Golf Club turn follow the path to the right to the temple and a wonderful beach.

27) Guanyin (Quanyin, Kwan Yin, or Kuanyin) is the ever-popular goddess of mercy. After Tin Hau, the majority of temples seem to be dedicated in her honor. She is famous throughout Asia, so I don't associate her as strongly with Hong Kong. There is a cool giant statue of her in the Tai Po which is worth checking out if you like giant buddhas, but don't want to face the crowds or cable cars needed to reach the Big Buddha.

28) Beyond Buddhist temples, there are a number of interesting churches, mosques, and Taoist temples scattered about. Hong Kong's religious diversity and diversity of religious architecture is pretty amazing.

29) Everyone is so nicely dressed all the time. There is just no competing with Hong Kong women on style. Its like the Paris of Asia.

30) Locals rarely go to Lan Kwai Fung, but invite them to some Korean BBQ and some karaoke, and you will definitely have a fabulous time.

Thanks for the buddy pic Krystal

31) Aunties, domestic helpers, maids, or whatever else the innumerable South East Asian women workers are called have very few legal rights. I highly suggest becoming informed about these issues before arriving, because it is a major part of Hong Kong's economy.

32) Cars drive on the left side of the road. I've been here nine months and I still forget this from time to time.

33) The Octopus card is the greatest metro pass system in existence. Enjoy it while you can.

34) Michelin starred restaurants are great, but there isn't any particular need to go out of your way to get to most of them. Hong Kong has hundreds of undiscovered gems which will be cheaper and less crowded than those with stars.

35) Dating is a big deal at HKUST. It is a small, relatively isolated campus where the guys outnumber the girls. Competition is fierce and PDA is abundant. Don't be surprised if you are stuck in an elevator with a couple making out. It has happened to me. More than once.

Thanks again for the photo Krystal!

36) Green mini buses are driven crazy fast, but are cheaper and get you to your destination more quickly. Double decker buses feel safer, but are significantly slower, and you may be packed in like sardines.

37) The minibus line is generally shorter at Hung Hau than Choi Hung. During rush periods, both lines are insanely long, but the Hung Hau bus arrives more frequently.

38) Sweaters are useful year-round because the air conditioning is cranked up so high in the classrooms and library. I frequently wish I had brought mittens.

39) Books in Hong Kong are insanely expensive. Take full advantage of the HKUST and Central Libraries, and check to see if you can find ebooks through the UW Madison library or the Dane County Public Library.

40) When ordering food in the cafeteria the English translation on the board is not always to key phrase that the register workers are listening for. Be prepared to try many different combinations of "BBQ pork and duck" before you hit on the right one.

Thanks Tyler for the pic!

41) The hall workers are very friendly and nice, but they rarely attempt to speak English. They will almost always wrangle a local or mainland student to act as translator. This is mildly frustrating for everyone.

42) HKUST lacks good public meeting places. If you are working on a group project, plan ahead and book a study room in the library, but be aware that they fill up quickly around exam time.

43) It seems like a silly thing, but try out a bunch of different pen brands. Hong Kong has a number of wonderful Japanese stationary brands available which makes taking notes a little bit more fun.

44) My favorite people-watching spots include IFC Mall, Sham Shui Po Market, and Victoria Park. Between these three locations you can get a good cross-section of the super-rich, average locals, and immigrant communities in Hong Kong.

45) If you look rich enough, you can take your dog anywhere. Seriously. I've been seated across a Pomeranian eating lasagna at Starbucks before.

46) HKUST professors like to assign group projects. As an exchange student, these are perfect opportunities to get to know local students.

47) "On Time" usually means roughly 10-15 minutes late for everything except the MTR.

48) Wake up early and watch the sunrise over the bay at least once. You will be well rewarded.

49) Meet as many people as you can. Hong Kong is a hotbed of global citizens with really fascinating life stories. I've met high powered businessmen, stay at home mothers, English teachers who have hopped from country to country, new immigrants struggling to make ends meet, locals who trace their ancestry back many many generations, artists stopping through for inspiration, and scientists collaborating with peers around the globe. It is Hong Kong's people that make the city so interesting.

50) Don't ever be afraid to reach out to someone. The students, staff, and even just random people you meet out and about in Hong Kong are some of the kindest and most hospitable people you will ever meet. Any and every effort you make to reach our tot them will be amply rewarded.

Hong Kong University of Stress and Tension?

Imagine, for a moment, the stereotypical Chinese exchange student at UW-Madison. Hardworking, quiet, hangs out with the mass of other Chinese exchange students in the library on weekends, and destroys every grading curve in your class. Now, whether or not this stereotype is fair or true, imagine you are transplanted to a school entirely populated with those types of students. This is HKUST.

Every table in the library is filled during midterms and finals. 

I don't want to promote the stereotype that Asians are curve busters and only care about their grades. That is not true. However, there is a particular academic atmosphere on campus that I think exchange students should be aware of. I noticed this right away, even on my first few days in Hong Kong before attending class, but I didn't feel comfortable talking about it until I had gained a little more experience. Now, 11 months in my year-long exchange I think I've got a better picture of the underlying causes.

Let's begin with some statistics. According to data collected this year, the School of Business and Management and the School of Engineering had the largest number of enrolled students, followed by the School ofScience, with the School of Humanities and Social Sciences trailing far behind.  Total student population is roughly 13,000, less than half of UW's size. This plays out in many ways: there are only two major academic buildings on campus (one for the business school and one for everyone else), fewer elective courses available, and each course normally only has one section available. This is significant because it makes scheduling courses more challenging, and often bumps up class size (I've had courses with 20-100+ students). With few exceptions, courses are comprised of 90 minute lectures and a 90 minute tutorial section. However, in my experience, given that professors often lack graduate student teaching assistants and that the entire class attends the same tutorial section, the tutorial is just another lecture.

Another nickname for HKUST is Fo-gai Dai or Foggy University

Non-local students make up roughly 1/3 of the student population. While the numbers don't differentiate between exchange and full-time non-local students, in reality the difference between the two groups is very clear, and a cause of tension on campus. Just as there is a general level of resentment against the perceived academic threat of too-smart Chinese students back at UW-Madison, many people (both local and exchange) blame the mainland students for the school's attitude of extreme academic excellence. In part, I think this is a continuation of general local resentment of mainlanders coming to Hong Kong and snapping up resources; whether that be spots at top universities, jobs, housing, or even milk powder.

The competition between local and mainland students, combined with the policy of grading courses on a curve and social pressure for academic excellence has resulted in a subculture of "Stress and Tension". In many ways, local and mainland students' only responsibility is to do well in school. Most students rely on their parents for financial support, so it is relatively rare for students to have a part-time job during the semester. HKUST students also appear to devote themselves primarily to one sports team or student organization, and while these groups do provide some social activities, it often seems like their major purpose to to create hierarchies within the school. With little outside of the classroom to distract them, students struggle to keep up a healthy work-life balance.

Pre-exam pic... always bring extra pens/pencils. 

So, that said, after my first semester I was feeling very nervous about my grades. Unlike at UW-Madison, there is very little feedback throughout the semester, so it can be difficult to determine how you are doing before going into the final exam. Similarly, the entire grading system is pretty opaque. Professors have a sort of outline of the relative weights of each assignments and test in the syllabus, but how the grades are calculated is a bit of a mystery. Additionally, the level of detail you are expected to recall for the exams is significantly different from what I experienced at Madison. Certainly the general concepts and problem-solving skills were tested on my two biology finals, but there were also a number of rote memorization questions. I vividly remember one problem that required us to fill in the name of an enzyme we had honestly discussed for two minutes one lecture five weeks back.

But, my grades were similar, if not better, than what I generally received at UW-Madison. Papers and group projects are generally graded much more generously than at UW. I think this is partially a reflection that English is everyone else's second language, but is a nice bonus for exchange students. Ultimately, despite all of the hype and fear on campus, academically HKUST is not all that different from UW-Madison, which makes it a perfect location for science and engineering students to plan an exchange!