Sunday, May 10, 2015

525,600 Minutes

I'm not a numbers person. Give me a chart, a graph, a photo, or anything else, I can usually figure out what is going on. But just numbers? They aren't that helpful to me. But there is a kind of magic in making the numbers tell a story.

In my humanities course about musical theater, we wrote and performed original musicals about social issues that impact our lives. The class was divided into two teams, and for most of the semester we didn't have much contact. Until, after each of our performances we came together into a mass choir and sang "Seasons of Love" from Rent. The song is about trying to identify moments that define your life; sunsets, midnights, cups of coffee, inches, miles, laughter, or strife that fill in the 525,600 minutes of each year.

Storytelling, I've learned throughout the years, isn't about simply transcribing reality. There is the objective truth of what happens day by day, but there is also an emotional truth that swells and falls with the passage of time. In this blog, I know I can't even begin to approach objective truth, no one wants to read a daily journal about my study habits, but I hope to tap into the emotional truth of my experience abroad. I've tried  reflective essays, thematic essays, history posts, travel guides, cultural tips, travel tricks, and photo dumps, so I want to try something a little different. Here are my 525,600 minutes by the numbers.

1 Country
2 Systems
3 Languages (English, Mandarin, Cantonese)
4 Times random strangers declared their love for me
5 Visitors in two weeks
6 Smoothies per week in Chengdu
7 Hour layover in Seattle
8 Antibiotic pills taken this past year
9 Cups of coffee per week (on average)
10 Weeks together with my intern friends
11 The bus I take nearly every day in Hong Kong
12 Favorite noodle toppings
13 Hour time difference between China and home
14 Days until I return home
15 Weeks in Chengdu
16 Renminbi each morning for breakfast baos
17 My sister's birthday, which I missed while I was in China
18 My sister's birthday, which I will miss again, because I will be in Washington D.C.
19 Hours by van from Tagong to Chengdu
20 Hong Kong Dollars for a latte in my travel mug on campus
24 Dumplings in one sitting
28 Group-mates in HUMA 2105 Phobia production
29 Knitted projects completed
32 Ounces of water per day, hot or cold, as a personal health goal
40-some Skype dates
45 Usernames, passwords, student numbers, and other identifying information I must remember
55 Hours riding the train from Chengdu to Guangdong
60 Books read this year (possibly more though... I've lost track)
65 Ounces of peanut butter consumed
77 New Facebook friends
80 Minutes from UST to Central via bus and subway
90 Minute lectures (urgh)
100 Questions about my tattoo
108 Beads on a Tibetan Prayer Bead Bracelet
600 Hours spent working at Consulate Chengdu (at least)
3,000 Word essay written with Kevin on the TPP
5,000 Dollar scholarship from IAP to make this possible
5,400 Blog views in the past few years
7,000 Dollars in loans from my parents
7,691 Miles from home
10,000 Noodles eaten (at least)
12,136 Feet above sea level, the highest I've ever been
7,000,000 People living in Hong Kong
1,300,000,000 People living in China

5 Hours spent thinking about this post
4 Final exams
3 Goodbye parties I hope to attend
2 Weeks before I leave
1 Year abroad
0 Regrets

Saturday, May 2, 2015

If You Love Somebody, Let Them Go...

Last year, I got a job at Macy's because I needed to do fun things like eat and pay rent. To be fair, the job wasn't terrible. I learned a lot about bedding and china (the plates, not the country) and most of my coworkers were whip-sharp retirees who were exceptionally kind, after they warm up to you. So, I spent most of my nights and weekends in a poorly lit basement dusting place settings that cost more than I made in a month. Obviously, this is the most romantic place to meet someone.

At first, Jon and I didn't work together much. He had the magical ability to swap shifts around until he only worked mornings, and he technically worked in a different department. However, eventually, whether by accident or the result of an elaborate scheme by our coworkers, we began working together more. He taught me about blenders and luggage sets, sustainable transportation systems, local Madison restaurants, and ultimate frisbee. We decided to go to a hockey game together after Christmas, just as friends, because I had missed most of the games of the season due to work.

And then the holiday schedule was released. Working in retail in the run-up to Christmas is one of those impossibly frustrating experiences that everyone should experience at least once in your life as a sort of character-building exercise. I was scheduled to work the entire week leading up to Christmas Day, which, because my family now lives 5 hours from Madison, meaning I wouldn't be able to go home for Christmas. I apparently looked pretty pathetic when I got the news, because Jon almost immediately invited me to join his family's Christmas parties. So, before we had even gone on our first date, we met each other's extended families, spent two holidays together, and set ourselves on some sort of relationship fast track.

I say all of this not only to brag about how amazing Jon is, though that is a piece of it, but to show that I never planned on having a boyfriend while abroad. I knew that there would be many sacrifices, but this wasn't one I was especially prepared to make. So, I tried to make a confusing situation as straight-forward as possible. I was leaving for two semesters, no matter what. I had been planning this trip well before I met Jon, and it wouldn't be fair to myself to drop this dream for a boy I had only known a few months. Fortunately, Jon agreed. So, we had an end date hanging in the back of our minds; sometime in August I would go halfway around the world. Sometime in August we would need to figure out if we wanted to break it off or struggle along together.

Then I was granted an internship with the Department of State in China for the summer. Nine months had turned into twelve, and we would only have a few more months together during one of my busiest semesters ever. I freaked out. This was too important of an opportunity to turn down, but can anyone reasonably expect someone who you have only been dating for six months to tolerate one year apart?

As of today, we are still together. We spent three hours yesterday Skyping and talking through our plans for when I return home, and when I go off to Washington D.C. for an internship this summer. We've been dating for roughly a year and a half, but have only been on the same hemisphere for one third of that time. I won't lie. It hasn't always been easy. The 13 hour time difference makes spontaneous conversations almost impossible. We can't grab Thai take-out, throw on Futurama, and work on homework together anymore. I can't help when he's running a fever or nursing a bum shoulder. And he wasn't there to celebrate with me when I (finally) found out that I landed my dream internship this coming summer.

But, I think that being abroad has actually helped us. I know that I can trust Jon to be honest and supportive, even in trying situations. We've kind of figured out how to balance personal goals with our responsibilities to each other. We've gotten much more creative in our relationship, and have more appreciation for the efforts of the other. We've both demonstrated that we are willing to work to keep the relationship going.

Communication has been absolutely essential in this. There is no substitute for in-person conversations, but between Skype, Facebook, Instagram, and the 10 billion other apps out there it's not that difficult to talk. The 13 hour time difference complicates things, but it isn't insurmountable. We've both gotten really good at calculating time zones, and not messaging each other at 3am. Barring sickness, unavoidable travel dates, or poor wifi, every Friday night/Saturday morning we have several hour long Skype dates. Some of the spontaneity that makes relationships fun is gone, but a well-timed cat picture or web comic can at least bridge the gap. And, truly, it is difficult not being able to immediately share the ups and downs of life abroad with him. But this also forces me to process my own thoughts and experiences more thoroughly. Although I have been known to rapid-fire ten messages in a row to force Jon to wake up at 6am to share some really important news. It was a fun moment, made even more so because it doesn't happened very often.

It's important to remember that there will still be bad days and fights, but you can recover. For us, what seemed like the easiest part of the year, Jon's visit to Hong Kong, was the most challenging. We had two weeks together over our one year anniversary, Christmas, and New Years, so there was a ton of pressure. We both wanted, needed, this to be the best two weeks of our relationship. It was not. Without going into details, because I don't need the entire internet knowing this, we drove each other crazy. Now, months later, the best way for me to understand what happened is that I was going through a kind of reverse culture shock as he was going through culture shock. We were so focused on making the most of every moment that we didn't give each other enough time or space to adjust to the changes in each other.

For me, I think this entire experience can be summed up by one quote:
"If you love somebody, let them go, for if they return, they were always yours. If they don't, they never were." Kahlil Gibran.


Saturday, April 25, 2015

50 Things to Know About Hong Kong

1) Hong Kong is not the same as the rest of China. They are very very proud of their individuality and identity.

2) Mandarin won't get you very far here. Character recognition (especially traditional characters) is helpful, but not essential. More people speak working English, or are more willing to speak English than Mandarin with you.

3) Spaghetti is sold everywhere, but it is not at all the same as the spaghetti you had growing up in the U.S. Don't be fooled.

4) Cheese, yogurt, and milk are abundantly available, but horribly expensive.

5) There are five major meals; breakfast, dim sum, lunch, high tea (yum cha), and dinner. Dim sum overlaps with early lunch/brunch time, and yum cha is similar to a late lunch. Generally, you should pick any three meals, not eat all five (especially if you don't want to gain a ton of weight).

Picture (reluctantly) taken by the waitress

6) French toast is deep fried bread filled with peanut butter and covered in condensed milk. I have no idea how this relates to the French toast I grew up with (bread dipped in egg and cooked on a griddle) but it is AMAZING.

7) Most Hong Konger's eat out for most meals. Generally, their apartments are too small to hold working kitchens, so they don't really have another option.

8) Locals take food very seriously. You absolutely should take advantage of this.

9) Unfortunately, HKUST cafeteria food is pretty much universally disappointing. Leave campus for as many meals as possible.

10) There area multitude of ways to dress up a simple bowl of ramen, for those times where you can't leave campus to eat. Cheap, easy, and tasty :)

Thanks for the pic Will!

11) SNACKS. Between the local and Japanese snacks, there are plenty of little treats to munch on as you are studying. My favorites are the freeze dried squid tentacles and waffles with peanut butter.

12) Facebook, Gmail, Twitter, the NYT, and information on "sensitive issues" are all freely available in Hong Kong.

13) However, most people don't use Facebook or Twitter. Currently, Whatsapp is the most popular, but LINE and a few other apps are gaining in popularity.

14) Press censorship is less obvious in Hong Kong than in the Mainland, but due to increasing pressure from the central government, self-censorship is on the rise.

15) The most important holiday is Chinese New Year, the exact date of which varies from year to year because it is calculated via a lunar calendar. Generally students are given a few days off of school to return home to spend time with their families.

Thanks Alvin for the photo!

16) In the weeks before the holiday, dozens of New Years markets spring up around the city. Check out the flowers, traditional crafts, and crazy toys for children on display.

17) I also highly recommend going to one of the dozens of little local temples and purchase a CNY offering set. Mine included a dozen sticks of incense, two candles, and a bundle of spirit money. If you are quiet and respectful, the little elderly volunteers in charge of the temple will help you successfully complete your offering.

18) On the night before CNY and the day of, nearly all restaurants and shops are closed. Many shops and restaurants remained closed for a few days afterwards too, so stock up on food beforehand.

19) Late April to Mid-September is the unbearably hot and humid season. Air con is available in the dorms, but only if you pay for it using your student id. If you arrive for fall semester in late August or early September, you won't receive your id for at least a week, meaning, unless your roommate is a local, you will not have air con during that time. Good luck.

20) Late September through November the weather is glorious and beautiful. Imagine that one gorgeous week of autumn in Madison extending for two months, but without the changing leaves.

Reflected picture by Ben.

21) December through February is wet, rainy, and cold(ish). Most buildings in Hong Kong lack central heating, so be prepared with layers and a good rain coat.

22) March and April are the foggy season. It will slowly warm up, the rain will stop, but the humidity will not ever dissipate. If you are extremely interested in hiking or photography, I strongly encourage you to come fall semester, not spring semester, because the fog obliterates all of the beautiful vistas.

23) And then, just as you are giving up hope because it has been grey and damp for weeks and midterms are looming and everything seems awful, the sun comes back out. Catch your Vitamin D while you can.

24) People don't obsessively talk about the weather like they do back in Wisconsin. Everyone kinda knows what to expect, so why bother?

25) Tin Hau (or Matsu in Mandarin) is the patron goddess of the sea and fishermen. Hong Kong was originally populated by a variety of fishing peoples. Therefore it makes sense that there are a bazillion Tin Hau temples everywhere. Seriously, you can barely walk three blocks without finding another one.

Thanks for the photo Kevin!

26) There are the big famous temples in SOHO and Yau Ma Tei, but the most sacred Tin Hau temple is not far from HKUST. Take bus 91 towards Clear Water Bay, get off at the stop past the roundabout with the green pagoda by the side of the road. Follow the trail up and down the mountains (with a bonus awesome view of Clear Water Bay) for roughly 3-4 hours. At the end of the trail you will glimpse the Joss Bay temple on your right, when you are in front of the Hong Kong Golf Club turn follow the path to the right to the temple and a wonderful beach.

27) Guanyin (Quanyin, Kwan Yin, or Kuanyin) is the ever-popular goddess of mercy. After Tin Hau, the majority of temples seem to be dedicated in her honor. She is famous throughout Asia, so I don't associate her as strongly with Hong Kong. There is a cool giant statue of her in the Tai Po which is worth checking out if you like giant buddhas, but don't want to face the crowds or cable cars needed to reach the Big Buddha.

28) Beyond Buddhist temples, there are a number of interesting churches, mosques, and Taoist temples scattered about. Hong Kong's religious diversity and diversity of religious architecture is pretty amazing.

29) Everyone is so nicely dressed all the time. There is just no competing with Hong Kong women on style. Its like the Paris of Asia.

30) Locals rarely go to Lan Kwai Fung, but invite them to some Korean BBQ and some karaoke, and you will definitely have a fabulous time.

Thanks for the buddy pic Krystal

31) Aunties, domestic helpers, maids, or whatever else the innumerable South East Asian women workers are called have very few legal rights. I highly suggest becoming informed about these issues before arriving, because it is a major part of Hong Kong's economy.

32) Cars drive on the left side of the road. I've been here nine months and I still forget this from time to time.

33) The Octopus card is the greatest metro pass system in existence. Enjoy it while you can.

34) Michelin starred restaurants are great, but there isn't any particular need to go out of your way to get to most of them. Hong Kong has hundreds of undiscovered gems which will be cheaper and less crowded than those with stars.

35) Dating is a big deal at HKUST. It is a small, relatively isolated campus where the guys outnumber the girls. Competition is fierce and PDA is abundant. Don't be surprised if you are stuck in an elevator with a couple making out. It has happened to me. More than once.

Thanks again for the photo Krystal!

36) Green mini buses are driven crazy fast, but are cheaper and get you to your destination more quickly. Double decker buses feel safer, but are significantly slower, and you may be packed in like sardines.

37) The minibus line is generally shorter at Hung Hau than Choi Hung. During rush periods, both lines are insanely long, but the Hung Hau bus arrives more frequently.

38) Sweaters are useful year-round because the air conditioning is cranked up so high in the classrooms and library. I frequently wish I had brought mittens.

39) Books in Hong Kong are insanely expensive. Take full advantage of the HKUST and Central Libraries, and check to see if you can find ebooks through the UW Madison library or the Dane County Public Library.

40) When ordering food in the cafeteria the English translation on the board is not always to key phrase that the register workers are listening for. Be prepared to try many different combinations of "BBQ pork and duck" before you hit on the right one.

Thanks Tyler for the pic!

41) The hall workers are very friendly and nice, but they rarely attempt to speak English. They will almost always wrangle a local or mainland student to act as translator. This is mildly frustrating for everyone.

42) HKUST lacks good public meeting places. If you are working on a group project, plan ahead and book a study room in the library, but be aware that they fill up quickly around exam time.

43) It seems like a silly thing, but try out a bunch of different pen brands. Hong Kong has a number of wonderful Japanese stationary brands available which makes taking notes a little bit more fun.

44) My favorite people-watching spots include IFC Mall, Sham Shui Po Market, and Victoria Park. Between these three locations you can get a good cross-section of the super-rich, average locals, and immigrant communities in Hong Kong.

45) If you look rich enough, you can take your dog anywhere. Seriously. I've been seated across a Pomeranian eating lasagna at Starbucks before.



46) HKUST professors like to assign group projects. As an exchange student, these are perfect opportunities to get to know local students.

47) "On Time" usually means roughly 10-15 minutes late for everything except the MTR.

48) Wake up early and watch the sunrise over the bay at least once. You will be well rewarded.

49) Meet as many people as you can. Hong Kong is a hotbed of global citizens with really fascinating life stories. I've met high powered businessmen, stay at home mothers, English teachers who have hopped from country to country, new immigrants struggling to make ends meet, locals who trace their ancestry back many many generations, artists stopping through for inspiration, and scientists collaborating with peers around the globe. It is Hong Kong's people that make the city so interesting.

50) Don't ever be afraid to reach out to someone. The students, staff, and even just random people you meet out and about in Hong Kong are some of the kindest and most hospitable people you will ever meet. Any and every effort you make to reach our tot them will be amply rewarded.

Sunday, April 19, 2015

Hong Kong University of Stress and Tension?

Imagine, for a moment, the stereotypical Chinese exchange student at UW-Madison. Hardworking, quiet, hangs out with the mass of other Chinese exchange students in the library on weekends, and destroys every grading curve in your class. Now, whether or not this stereotype is fair or true, imagine you are transplanted to a school entirely populated with those types of students. This is HKUST.


Every table in the library is filled during midterms and finals. 

I don't want to promote the stereotype that Asians are curve busters and only care about their grades. That is not true. However, there is a particular academic atmosphere on campus that I think exchange students should be aware of. I noticed this right away, even on my first few days in Hong Kong before attending class, but I didn't feel comfortable talking about it until I had gained a little more experience. Now, 11 months in my year-long exchange I think I've got a better picture of the underlying causes.



Let's begin with some statistics. According to data collected this year, the School of Business and Management and the School of Engineering had the largest number of enrolled students, followed by the School ofScience, with the School of Humanities and Social Sciences trailing far behind.  Total student population is roughly 13,000, less than half of UW's size. This plays out in many ways: there are only two major academic buildings on campus (one for the business school and one for everyone else), fewer elective courses available, and each course normally only has one section available. This is significant because it makes scheduling courses more challenging, and often bumps up class size (I've had courses with 20-100+ students). With few exceptions, courses are comprised of 90 minute lectures and a 90 minute tutorial section. However, in my experience, given that professors often lack graduate student teaching assistants and that the entire class attends the same tutorial section, the tutorial is just another lecture.


Another nickname for HKUST is Fo-gai Dai or Foggy University


Non-local students make up roughly 1/3 of the student population. While the numbers don't differentiate between exchange and full-time non-local students, in reality the difference between the two groups is very clear, and a cause of tension on campus. Just as there is a general level of resentment against the perceived academic threat of too-smart Chinese students back at UW-Madison, many people (both local and exchange) blame the mainland students for the school's attitude of extreme academic excellence. In part, I think this is a continuation of general local resentment of mainlanders coming to Hong Kong and snapping up resources; whether that be spots at top universities, jobs, housing, or even milk powder.



The competition between local and mainland students, combined with the policy of grading courses on a curve and social pressure for academic excellence has resulted in a subculture of "Stress and Tension". In many ways, local and mainland students' only responsibility is to do well in school. Most students rely on their parents for financial support, so it is relatively rare for students to have a part-time job during the semester. HKUST students also appear to devote themselves primarily to one sports team or student organization, and while these groups do provide some social activities, it often seems like their major purpose to to create hierarchies within the school. With little outside of the classroom to distract them, students struggle to keep up a healthy work-life balance.


Pre-exam pic... always bring extra pens/pencils. 


So, that said, after my first semester I was feeling very nervous about my grades. Unlike at UW-Madison, there is very little feedback throughout the semester, so it can be difficult to determine how you are doing before going into the final exam. Similarly, the entire grading system is pretty opaque. Professors have a sort of outline of the relative weights of each assignments and test in the syllabus, but how the grades are calculated is a bit of a mystery. Additionally, the level of detail you are expected to recall for the exams is significantly different from what I experienced at Madison. Certainly the general concepts and problem-solving skills were tested on my two biology finals, but there were also a number of rote memorization questions. I vividly remember one problem that required us to fill in the name of an enzyme we had honestly discussed for two minutes one lecture five weeks back.



But, my grades were similar, if not better, than what I generally received at UW-Madison. Papers and group projects are generally graded much more generously than at UW. I think this is partially a reflection that English is everyone else's second language, but is a nice bonus for exchange students. Ultimately, despite all of the hype and fear on campus, academically HKUST is not all that different from UW-Madison, which makes it a perfect location for science and engineering students to plan an exchange!

Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Creative Hong Kong

Hong Kong has developed a reputation of being filled with suits rushing about trying to make millions of dollars and their rich tai-tai's spending money like its going out of style. And, to be honest, there are plenty of people like this in the city. But, the rumors that Hong Kong is devoid of good design, culture, or creativity is absolutely wrong. Hong Kong has its own unique aesthetic, you just need to search a little harder to uncover it.


The obvious place to begin is at the Hong Kong Art Museum. While not as large as Beijing's museums, nor as edgy as some of Shanghai's museums, this is a great place to begin exploring Hong Kong's art scene. In addition to pottery samples in all shapes and sizes, dozens of scrolls of gorgeous calligraphy, there are many more subtle examples of Hong Kong identity. Many of the poems and brush paintings on display are ancient examples of protest through artwork. Hidden amongst the bamboo leaves and orchids were critiques of the excesses of court life and calls to return to traditional values. Additionally, when I visited I saw an exhibit of works created by the first Chinese artists allowed to travel to Paris to study Western painting; showcasing Hong Kong's unique position between East and West. I was also able to view a retrospective for the Hong Kong sculptor Tong King-sum. The exhibit exalted the artist's use of texture, his strength in overcoming his physical disabilities, and his role in promoting the arts in Hong Kong throughout his life.


They don't really allow photos inside the museum... so you will just have to visit to see their collections yourself!


My next favorite spot is PMQ in Sheung Wan. PMQ stands for Police Married Quarters, because back during the British colonial period police officers who were married with families lived in this building. Years later, the building was abandoned, and the neighborhood became built up as one of the premier shopping districts on the island. The local government, unwilling to demolish this historical building, but not wanting this valuable real estate to go to waste held a contest. Whoever came up with the best plan for the idea that would allow the public to best appreciate both the legacy of the building and the contemporary state of the neighborhood. 



A team of designers came up with a plan to foster young stars in the Hong Kong design industry. Given that real estate is outrageously expensive in Hong Kong, but having a shop or base for others to discover you is so important, especially to those just entering their fields, the team decided to provide subsidized studios/ shops for the designers in the PMQ building. The entire building was renovated to meet modern safety standards, and young professionals in the fashion, jewelry, cosmetics, interior design, product design, bakery, and other related design industries were invited to join a space for two years. Additionally, established brands and restaurants were invited into a limited number of semi-permanent spaces for a higher price, thereby subsidizing the small companies and ensuring sustainability for the project. 




What I like most about the PMQ project is that it creatively solves many problems all at once while at the same time staying true to its design roots. Local and foreign artists are invited to put on free shows for the public, creating a rotating stream of attractions, while the more permanent designers have time to develop new products and industry connections. This is one of my favorite places to purchase unexpected gifts for friends and family back home. Not only am I supporting local artists, but I also get have a wonderful experience every time I return!


Honestly the best cupcake I've had in Hong Kong!

While you are in the neighborhood, be sure to check out the galleries and antique shops along Hollywood Road. There are dozens of small galleries with a constantly changing array of contemporary artists from all around the world. While some of the locals who prowl the area may be looking for a piece to hang in their apartment, I've never had any problems just going in and checking everything out. The people working at the galleries are generally very friendly and love talking about the works. 


If you are looking for more traditional art  head to Lascar Road (more commonly referred to as Cat Street. The little shops along this road specialize in Chinese and Tibetan antiques. However, be warned that most (if not all) of the items are fakes. If you want the real deal, be prepared to shell out hundreds or thousands of dollars at one of the larger Hollywood Rd. shops. Still, the Cat Street market is a fun and colorful shop if you are looking for a "jade" pendant or Mao poster. My personal favorite is the little old man who sells hand painted calligraphy at the end of the street. Pick up a traditional quote or two from him!



Of course, art isn't limited to museums or galleries. Wandering around in the Soho/Sheung Wan area is a fantastic street art crawl. Just a week or so ago there was a huge initiative by HKWalls to invite graffiti artists to spray or paint huge murals all around this neighborhood. I've also heard that they've gone to Stanley Beach and done a similar project, but I have yet to return there since winter break. But seriously, grab a map and try to find all of these amazing pieces (and some other surprising unauthorized graffiti too!).


Nothing says Hong Kong like Bruce Lee!

I haven't even begun to touch on some of the amazing gardens, architecture, historical archives, concerts, plays, or the random pop up events that I've occasionally stumbled across. Hong Kong has an amazing and lively art scene, it just takes a little digging to find. A blend of East and West, tradition and modern, commercial and avant garde, there is always something interesting and inspiring going on in this amazing city.


Thursday, March 12, 2015

Why I Study Chinese (And You Can Too!)

In high school, I resented being forced to study Spanish. I hated Spanish in middle school, and I was prepared to do almost anything to avoid studying it again in high school. I say almost, because I was not about to take the distance-learning French class which was rumored to be even more boring. During my sophomore year I heard about a Chinese course being offered to high school students at UW-RF, and got really excited. Finally, something other than Spanish or French! A few friends and I talked to the administration and received permission to enroll in the program during our junior year. That year passed, and so did most of the summer without any additional information about the course. Finally, one week before classes start, I heard a rumor that the program was cancelled due to low enrollment. I confronted a guidance counselor, demanding to know what exactly was going on. Indeed, the program had been cancelled, and the school had not bothered to inform any of us students. With only two years left in high school, I had no other choice. I demanded placement in a Spanish course, and spent the next two years resenting every verb conjugation exercise.

This is brewing in the back of my mind as I sit down at SOAR to begin enrolling for my first semester of courses. I was in one of the last enrollment sessions, and many of the classes were already full. My first priority was to sign up for a chemistry course, everything else was secondary because I was on the way to becoming a famous genetics researcher (as I'm writing this, I'm laughing at myself... if only I knew). Anyway, I began scrolling through the endless list of electives and very quickly became overwhelmed. I gravitated towards recognizable topics; costume workshop, concert band, and French. Except, introductory French was full, or it conflicted with my chemistry class. I tried Italian, German, and even Spanish. No luck. I clicked through every single language offered by UW (hint... there are a lot!) and found exactly two that were not full or in conflict with chemistry; Mandarin Chinese and Urdu. I had no idea how one would even begin learning Chinese, it seemed so completely foreign, but that anger I carried throughout high school came back to me. I won't let my stupid little high school keep me down. This is a new start. I'm a whole new person in the big city. I can do anything. I enrolled in Mandarin.

I still remember the ver first day of class almost perfectly; nervously entering a new lecture hall in the Microbial Sciences building, awkwardly introducing myself to students from all sorts of backgrounds; students who already spoke fluently but couldn't read or write, Cantonese speakers, students who have Chinese parents but never learned themselves, Korean students, and even a couple of other clueless beginners like me, and getting my Chinese name 高爱丽. Our poor TA, You Laoshi, had just arrived from China, and we were his very first class. If only he knew what he was getting into. 

We spent a solid month echoing sounds back to our teachers. No characters. No words. Just sounds. Vowels, consonants, and tones were practiced for eight hours every week. It felt more like an awkward pre-school singalong than an actual university course. Every day I went to Chinese class wondering, why bother? Its not like I was actually learning anything. But I went, every single day. And I commiserated with my classmates. We complained during class exercises where we introduced ourselves for the 7 billionth time (你好, 我叫高爱丽。 我是一个学生。你呢?). We complained about our listening homework in the cafeteria. We complained about hand cramps as we compared our hundreds of copied characters. We gossiped about the TAs. We wondered if we would be able to actually go to China one day. And, against all common sense, we signed up for second semester. 

Chinese does not come naturally to me. Every single thing I know about the Chinese language has been hard-won through hours spent copying characters, drilling pronunciation, and hundreds of flash cards. For example, I know the words left and right. We learned them in second semester! The characters are 右 and 左, they are pronounced you and zuo or is it zuo and you.. wait, does the box-thing or the I-thing mean left or right? And I'm back at the very beginning again.

But, despite all of that, Chinese is so much fun! Take for example the phrase 马马虎虎. Literally translated, it means horse horse, tiger tiger... which is nonsense, unless you know the story behind the phrase. Way back when, someone drew a picture and proudly held it up for his friends to admire. Apparently, it wasn't a very good picture, because his friends couldn't tell if it was supposed to be a horse or a tiger. From a mediocre picture to a phrase for not very good, Chinese is proof that languages evolve and freeze all the time. It may make no logical sense, but this is what makes Mandarin interesting to me.

Last semester, I took UST's Chinese for non-Chinese background students VII (AKA advanced foreigners) with a bunch of wonderful Americans from schools literally across the nation, two Korean students, an pair Indonesian students, a students who's family was originally from elsewhere but was raised in HK, and a graduate student from Greece. UST is admirably trying to revamp their Mandarin Chinese language program for international students, providing more levels in order to more accurately group students according to their levels. But, because we all came from such different backgrounds, it is very difficult to know who exactly knows what. The curriculum remains a work in progress, and while I'm glad to have taken the course to keep practicing, I will be even more grateful when I return home to UW's wonderful Chinese language department. 

This semester, I enrolled in eighth semester Chinese, but ultimately dropped it. In combination with 15 other difficult credits, and missing much of the first two weeks of class, I knew there was no way I could catch up with the heritage speakers. I was surprised, however, to find how much I miss the routine of Chinese class, looking over new vocabulary, slowly reading through new papers, and commiserating with an instant new set of friends. I find myself listening in to Mandarin conversations on campus, just to quiz myself. I'm trying to decipher the traditional characters on signs around campus. And, I'm looking into graduate programs that include a Chinese language component.

Every day you make a million random little decisions that shape your life. Consider stretching yourself, and learn a random language. Had I not made that snap decision four years ago, I wouldn't be sitting in this dorm room overlooking the sea. I wouldn't have found two amazing internships working with passionate and inspiring people an ocean away. I wouldn't have found a community of friends who continue to support and amaze me every day. I wouldn't have stumbled onto a million other random little decisions that have made my life so much richer and more interesting. 

Saturday, February 14, 2015

For My Grandpa...

Back in the beginning stages of planning everything, when China was just this crazy idea in the back of my mind, I came up with a list of a million reasons not to go. Why leaving would be the worst possible decision I could make. Why traveling would ruin my life forever. Many were pretty stupid; What if my plane crashes and I'm forced to integrate with some tiny Pacific island culture WITHOUT WIFI?!? What if everyone back home forgets about me and I become forever alone?What if I catch the bubonic plague?

Some were a little more reasonable; What if I get dumped because my boyfriend doesn't want to deal with being thousands of miles apart? Will I make friends? What if I hate absolutely all of the food? What do I do if I get lost? Who do I call for help?

And, of course; What if something happens to my family while I'm away?

There isn't really a way to account for all of the what-ifs anxiety will throw at you, and you definitely shouldn't be limited by them (especially the crazy ones). But, that doesn't mean nothing will go wrong.

Last week, one of my worst fears came true. My grandfather passed away, painlessly, but suddenly. Unexpectedly. It was my third day of class, and I was gearing up for microbiology lab in Starbucks when I heard the news. There aren't really words for the shock and pain I felt in that moment. I think I immediately burst out crying and scared everyone else in the coffee shop. My first thought was: I'm on the wrong side of the world. My second thought was: I need to go home. Right now. 

It's funny, had you asked me just a few days earlier where exactly home was, I would have said Madison. Or, had it been a particularly nice day in Hong Kong, HKUST. But during the entire 48 hours it took to return to the US, home was Minnesota, back with my family.

I spent one week at home. Admittedly, during the daytime I mostly slept, and at night I was up watching youtube videos and looking at pictures of cats while sipping chocolate-mint tea. But I also went out to see a lot of my family. Between school in Madison, internships and study abroad, I haven't really been home for more than a few days in, well, nearly two years.

There is that old cliche about how study abroad changes you, or finding yourself abroad. I always secretly thought that was just a load of bull. Life changes you. It doesn't matter if you are in China or Minnesota, time passes by, and we all change. My youngest sister is now figuring out where she wants to go to college and setting up a senior art show, while the other contemplates graduation and entering the job market.  My high school friends are working real jobs, beginning to get married, considering graduate school, and freaking out about student loan debt. Almost everyone I knew from UW graduated this semester, and they won't be back in Madison with me when I return next year. My grandparents shrank, and they look so much less sturdy than they used to. My parents looked tired, a lot more worn down than I remembered.

I came back to old memories of summer weekends spent baling hay, feeding calves, chicken chasing, and sneaking ice cream to the farm cats. I listened to dozens of stories I've never heard before, met distant cousins, family friends, and other local veterans. There were lots of tears, even more hugs, and endless mugs of coffee to ease the pain. It all seemed so removed from my life here in UST, but at the same time intimately familiar.

I hadn't realized how homesick I was until I boarded that first plane and felt a pain clenched around my chest drift away. I reveled in all the little details of life; the smell of fresh coffee everywhere, wheat bread, cheap gossip rag magazines in by checkout lines, and fresh snow and wicked cold. As I settled in with my third or fourth cup of coffee, I knew this was where I belonged. But soon enough, the feeling was back again. Even within a short week, the clamps tightened around my chest. I NEEDED a good bowl of noodles. American commercials are SO annoying. Why isn't hot water freely available everywhere? Don't you realize it is cold outside?

Now, back here in the dorms, unable to sleep at 3am for the third night in a row, I am beginning to realize that I'm homesick for a place that doesn't exist, cannot exist. I want all of my family, high school, college, and international friends within a one hour radius. I want a lake, the Minnesota north woods, Tibetan mountain top temples, cow pastures, and the ocean shore all together. I need a good cheeseburger, Beijing style dumplings, mapo doufu, and fish ball noodle soup served with freshly brewed coffee. I want Portland weirdness with Madison college-town atmosphere and Hong Kong's cosmopolitan flair. I want a cabin on the lake, a big red barn, and a refurbished urban loft with lots of natural lighting. I want white Christmas's with tropical flowers and fall foliage. I want the impossible, and it pains me to admit that.

Maybe this is the part of travel no one tells you about. Yes, I can adapt to anything... but can I adopt anywhere?

Mr. Kindschi's class, I got your questions! I will try to send out answers later on in the week, once I catch up on homework. 

Friday, January 23, 2015

Silver Linings

Study abroad is the best time of your life. This is when you make memories you will cherish for the rest of your life. Your friends and family are cheering you on from back home. Every day presents new opportunities for adventure, friendship, and self-exploration.

Except, not every day is magical and wonderful. Don't get me wrong. I'm having a fantastic time here in Hong Kong, but it is impossible to have the best day of your life for 365 straight days. And so, I'm going to present a list of five things I shouldn't really complain about, and five things that keep me going on the rough days. Interspersed are pictures from a recent hike I took near the Clearwater Bay Park down to Po Tai fishing village.

1. It takes twice as long to get anything done. Administratively, study abroad is complicated. Registering for classes is a multi-week process as I try to build a solid class schedule, get approval to enroll, and register the credits to transfer back to UW Madison. None of this is difficult, but it is time-consuming. Similarly, I've spent three days paying for housing, and two weeks trying (unsuccessfully) to get my taxes done. Things get complicated, and its not like I can walk into someone's office in Madison and ask for help.

On the bright side, people have by and large been very helpful and considerate. Random people on the street help me as I struggle to bag up my groceries, redirect me when I get lost, and professors respond to emails within 24 hours. It is easy to overlook the countless little moments where people go out of their way to help me find my way, but their help is priceless.


2. Air pollution. The air has been particularly foggy/smoggy in the past week, which makes it really difficult to take clear pictures... or you know, breathe.

Still, we've had some pretty excellent sunrises and sunsets.


3. Losing important documents. A couple of days ago I lost my wallet in the MTR. Back home, this is bothersome, but not the end of the world. However, my wallet contains my passport, student id(s), room card, octopus card, debit card, cash, and my health insurance card. The process for replacing any single item takes days or weeks. Replacing all of them? I shudder at the thought. Lucky someone had turned my wallet into the MTR authorities, and after two hours of absolute panic, I was on my way back home.

People always warned me about pick pockets and muggers, but I've (thankfully) never had anything stolen from me. I can be pretty absent minded, and I can't tell you the number of times I have had complete strangers run up to me to return a book or some change I had forgotten about. And really, I cannot thank the stranger who turned in my wallet enough. Thank you.


4. I'm cold.  I know it is like -20 degrees in Madison right now, but hear me out. I live in a concrete box of a dorm room with leaky windows and no central heating. None of the buildings on campus are heated. Even finding a soft chair to curl up in is difficult. Admittedly, during the afternoon, this isn't really a problem; throw on a light sweater and you are good to go for a day of adventures. But at night, the wind whips off of the ocean and slices right through the cracks in the windows and chills the entire campus. There is no relief until the sun comes up the next morning.

Fortunately, Hong Kong has excellent tea and snacks to help warm you up on a chilly day. Few things are better than a mug of milk tea and a freshly made waffle dripping with peanut butter and condensed milk.


5. I get sick frequently. Different side of the world, different microbes. Also, in generally having millions of crammed into such a small area is a recipe for disease. While I've been lucky and haven't had any serious injuries or illnesses, I have had dozens of flus, colds, migraines, and mysterious illnesses that have laid me low for a few days. Nothing feels worse than being sick abroad.

I've learned to rebound much more quickly. I've only got a few months left! I can't waste time sitting around nursing a mild cold! There are exhibits to see, parks to visit, hikes to complete, pictures to take, and memories to make! Study abroad teaches you dozens of ways to become mentally and physically resilient. Like everything else in life, there are highs and lows. Take time to cherish the highlights, but recall the troubles too. It is not the struggles that define us, but how we react to trials that shape who we are.


Sunday, January 11, 2015

Study Abroad New Year's Resolutions

The last couple of months have absolutely flown by. The holiday season has always been my favorite time of year. This is my first time abroad for Thanksgiving, my birthday, and Christmas, and it was a little bittersweet. I missed out on the classic turkey dinner for Thanksgiving, but a group of American exchange students organized a brunch, which may not be traditional... but was delicious. 


For my birthday, instead of the traditional Babcock Dairy ice cream (which I miss desperately!) and cheese curds, I got a group of friends from my Chinese class to try out Sichuan-style hot pot. After stuffing ourselves with meat and veggies, we visited WanChai for some bubble tea and egg waffles!


Note to self... don't take large bite of waffle before having your picture taken!

Spending Christmas away from home was definitely the most challenging for me. Here, Christmas is a holiday spent out with friends, shopping, looking at the lights, and exchanging gifts. However, for me Christmas is always about family. It is the one time of year most of my extended family gets together to just spend a day cooking, eating, exchanging meaningful gifts, and catching up on the family news. Given all the time I've spent abroad or away from my family in Madison, this year was especially tough. I had a some solace from my boyfriend visiting over Christmas and New Year's (thank you Jon, and happy one year anniversary!) and the knowledge that my immediate family was visiting soon, but it is not quite the same. 


Gotta love obligatory MTR selfies!

So... with all that said, New Year's has passed (at least, the western one... Chinese New Year is in February) and it is time for me to lay out my study abroad resolutions. I'm over halfway through my Hong Kong experience (though I may be able to go to Beijing next, more on that later), and its time for me to evaluate my progress thus far.

1) Eat more weird food. I've gotten pretty lazy with my meals lately, and have been eating western food more often than I care to admit. Hong Kong is known for crazy Cantonese dishes, and its now or never!

2) Climb more mountains. Some of my favorite memories from the past semester were on group or solo hikes in Hong Kong's amazing parks, but I avoided taking more of those treks because they often take up a significant amount of time or energy. I absolutely need to do the Lion's Rock hike, Dragon's Back hike, and climb up Lantau Island.

3) Take more photographs. No, I don't mean selfies. I've kinda been going back and forth about when and where I want to take my camera to get really nice pictures. I hate looking (more) like a tourist, but I really enjoy having quality pictures to show what life in Hong Kong is really like. I want to show more pictures of local life, housing projects, and the wet markets!

4) Spend at least 30 minutes each day preparing for the Foreign Service Officer Test. I recently learned that I was not invited to move onto the oral exams for the Department of State hiring process. While this wasn't a complete surprise, I'm still a little disappointed. Rather than moping, I'm working to make sure I have an even stronger application next year. 

5) Create memories through multiple medias. I blog, I dump pictures onto my Facebook page, and I Instagram weird moments of my day, but other than that... I don't do a lot to record everything that is going on around me. I want to take more videos, re-start my personal journal, collect more tickets and postcards, fill out the Google+ page I'm sharing with the Oregon High School class I working with for the Classroom Connections project (hi everyone!), and I want to start making a couple of Shutterfly books filled with memories and thoughts from my time in Sichuan and Hong Kong. 

6) Explore more. I've fallen into the trap where I know the districts where I am most comfortable: Sheung Wan has fantastic food, Tin Hau has the fabulous library, Kowloon Tong and Kwun Tong have good malls, and Lantau Island is a nice getaway. But I really want to make more of an effort to visit ALL of the MTR stops, and places not on the stops! More outlying islands, more local areas, and avoid getting stuck in a rut. Along with this, I really really want to visit Taiwan and Vietnam this semester. Financially, it didn't work out last semester, but with a little more careful planning, I should be able to continue exploring abroad!




So welcome to 2015, the year of the ram! I hope it is another amazing year filled with adventure, exploration,  and opportunity like 2014 was!