Saturday, November 29, 2014

Exploring Community and Culture Through Exchange

Classes are over, and I'm already beginning to prep for final exams. It still feels like I'm just getting my bearings in Hong Kong, but the year is already half-way over!

Anyway, I really wanted to take this opportunity to explain how influential the humanities course has been. Community and Cultural Identity (HUMA 3630) was, by far, my favorite class this semester, and possibly one of the most interesting courses I've taken throughout my university experience. The objective of the course is to provide students (mostly locals in the School of Humanities and Social Science) with the analytical skills to study how we create and differentiate groups, communities, and cultures. However, in reality, this class forces students to consider how they identify themselves and interact with others.


Lectures/Tutorials: Twice a week, for two hours, we would have traditional lectures on social theories, historical context, and different methods of analyzing social groups. For the most part, these were my least favorite part of the class... but I generally dislike long lectures. However, the professor went out of his way to make sure we were paying attention and participating. Everyone was expected to answer at least one question per lecture, and provide some comments or questions during discussions. Our professor also included specific, local examples to show how these theories can be applied to local concepts. We talked a lot about Hong Kong history, specifically examining South Asian minorities, distinct groups of Chinese immigrants like the Hakka, modern trans-national families, and, of course, the student protests.

Our professor even participated in an on-campus forum about the protests.

Additionally, it was really interesting to get a Chinese perspective on Western history, philosophy, and sociological theories. You know how in high school, we covered Chinese history in about one week, rushing through a couple of dynasties, the Opium wars, and the Communist revolution? In this class we covered all of Western civilization in two days. The important bits are apparently the Greeks, the Romans, the Middle Ages, and Modernity. It's a weird portrait, and it really forced me to put my knowledge of Chinese history into perspective. This also placed me under a lot of pressure throughout the class. As a Genetics major, I can say with confidence that I'm no expert on Greco-Roman history, America's 20th century anti-Chinese immigration policies, or current movements of Chinese businessmen abroad, but I was frequently called out to explain historical backgrounds or current Western perspectives. It is really difficult to sum up several centuries of Western racism in three sentences, but I tried.


Field Trips: Throughout the semester, there were three planned field trips for the class. We all needed to attend at least one, but we were welcome to all. Unfortunately, I was only able to attend one of these trips, nonetheless I learned a lot. Each field trip focused on a different minority group around Hong Kong; the Hakka, Pakistanis & Indians, and a unique rural village in the New Territories. By studying each group's cultural event, conducting on-site interviews, and doing a little independent research, we were to piece together an idea of how these groups maintain their identity within the larger Hong Kong community.


Way back when, before Hong Kong was taken as a British colony, but after most of the Chinese residents had already settled, a group of Hakka Chinese migrated to Hong Kong island. Together they established a small fishing and farming community and managed relatively well. According to legend, one year, before the Mid-Autumn festival, there was a huge typhoon. Along with the waves of water, a giant python appeared in the village, eating livestock and threatening the villagers. The brave villagers managed to kill the python, but soon afterwards, a mysterious plague began killing many of the Hakka. A priest declared that the python had been the son of the Dragon King of the Ocean, and he had sent the plague as punishment. The only way to save the village was to perform an elaborate fire dragon dance. A huge straw dragon, studded with thousands of sticks of burning incense was carried by the Hakka men all throughout the village for three days, until the plague was gone. The ritual is repeated every year by the Hakka community.


Now, the old Hakka village has been replaced with high rises, as central Hong Kong has been built up over the years. The area has become gentrified with western restaurants and luxury apartment building. Nearly all of the Hakka people have been forced out of the area, and are now scattered throughout the New Territories. However, with the support of the Hong Kong government, the Jockey Club charities, and, most importantly, the strong communal ties that continue to bond these people, the ritual continues as an important cultural tourism event. Government officials are invited to the lighting of the dragon while expats and mainland tourists eagerly flock to watch the spectacle. Despite this, the Hakka community still maintains ownership over the ritual. A religious ceremony takes place at the local temple, where only Hakka community leaders are invited to participate. The majority of the volunteer  organizers, musicians, and dragon-runners are Hakka. And the ceremony continues to be a source of strength and pride for the Hakka community.


Community Service: The third component of the class was, to me at least, the most interesting. Everyone was required to complete at least 15 hours of service with an organization that works with South Asian minorities in Hong Kong. I was selected to work with Caritas Ngau Tau Kok on a number of different projects within their Ethnic Minorities (EM) outreach program. South Asian minorities, particularly Pakistani, Nepalese, and certain ethnic groups from India, face discrimination, lower socio-economic status, and little or no access to Chinese-language education, disconnecting them from the majority Hong Kong society. Caritas works with these minority groups to address a few key problems; Chinese language lessons, after-school tutoring for children, public housing assistance, and connection to the Chinese community.


Our first project focused on the dearth of large, affordable housing for large immigrant families. In shifts, we visited an apartment compound with a large number of Pakistani immigrants. The compound was being systematically bought out by a developer, and Caritas estimates that all of the tenants will be forced to leave sometime next year. We administered questionnaires to the residents to get a better idea of their awareness of the issue and identify their needs. Pakistani families are generally larger than local Chinese families (averaging four to five children per household, as opposed to one or two) and have significantly lower income levels, due to the lack of job opportunities for minorities and that the wife traditionally stays at home. It is, therefore, very difficult for these families to find adequate housing. Many of the families we interviewed had been waiting for public housing for five to seven years, and didn't know where they would go if they were forced out of their current apartments.


Our second project was to host a town-hall style meeting for both the Chinese and EM residents to attend. There, the two graduate students led a discussion about the current situation, future options for the residents, and they attempted to answer the residents' questions. From the beginning, the group self-segregated, EM women in the back, Chinese families to the left, and EM men to the right. The gap between the two groups only continued to widen throughout the meeting, as the graduate students slowly translated conversations for each group to understand. It was interesting to watch how these two groups interacted. While they all shared the same concerns, there was no sense that the two sides were at all connected by this issue.


The third project was to attend weekly tutoring sessions for Pakistani high schoolers at the Caritas community center. They mostly focus on Chinese and math tutoring, as these are two key areas where EM students traditionally fall behind, but on the day I attended, I worked with a couple of female students to draft an English essay about teen pregnancy. The students were basically like all students everywhere; fun to talk with, curious about me and the United States, and willing to do almost anything to distract themselves from their homework. I had a lot of fun. While I'm obviously useless as a Chinese tutor, I have been invited back to continue helping students with their writing and math homework.


Our final project was a community and cultural fair for local Chinese residents to learn more about South Asian culture and to interact with EM people. Visitors stopped by different stations to learn about different foods from around the region, receive a name in Urdu, practice their cricket skills, and get a henna tattoo! The children had a lot of fun running around playing the games, and it was nice to see the locals and minorities interacting more than they usually did. Of course, it wasn't a complete success, there were a fair number of people racing to get through each of the stations to to get their final prize, but overall in some small way I think we contributed a little bit the the greater understanding between these two groups of people. At the very least, I gained many new friends and memories from the experience.


Friday, November 21, 2014

A Day in My Life at HKUST

7:00 My alarm jars me awake, and I slowly climb down from my lofted bed. My two roommates are still asleep, so I try not to make too much noise as I clumsily assemble the ingredients for coffee. My French press is perhaps the most valuable thing I own here, as coffee options on campus are pretty bleak.

This is my bed/desk! 
There's not a whole lot of room, but it's enough for me.

8:30 After I drain two cups of coffee, read through my emails, and catch up on what everyone on the other side of the world has been up to (thank you Facebook and Twitter!), I pack my bag and head out to school.

 Watching the sun rise over the bay is never disappointing!

8:45 The entire campus is set on a mountainside, meaning everything is arranged vertically. In theory, you could walk along the sidewalk to get to the main academic building, but no one actually does this. There is a series of walkways and elevators that runs up the center of campus that everyone uses instead. They are convenient, but crowded during passing times.  At 9:00 they usually aren’t too bad, and you can generally get into an elevator pretty quickly.

One of two sections of the bridge linking the dorms to the academic building.

9:00 I sit down to enjoy some breakfast… er, dim sum.  HKUST is pretty isolated, so there are no real off-campus food options. On campus there are a few major food options, and unfortunately they are mostly less than ideal. For western (ish) food there is Einstein’s cafĂ©, Milano Fresh, Ebenezer’s, or McDonalds. They are building a Starbucks on campus, but that won’t be finished until next year. For Chinese food there is Seafront Cafe, Asia Pacific Catering, Golden Rice bowl, the fancy Chinese restaurant on the ground floor, or the cafeteria on LG1. The LG1 cafeteria is widely considered the best on campus, so that’s where I eat most of the time. The baos are usually served around 8:30 or 9:00, and they sell out quickly, so hurry in.

I missed the baos today, but did manage to snag some fried noodles... Don't forget the chili sauce!

9:30 First lecture of the day; Plant Biotechnology.  This is a pretty large class, with roughly 70 students, and the professors move through material very quickly.  Attendance isn’t recorded, but the lecture slides are mostly composed of excerpts from actual research paper and require some serious interpretation. There are no breakout discussion sessions, and the weekly tutorial session usually ends up being another lecture.  Raising your hand to ask question during lecture is not actively discouraged, but the professor will get frustrated if lecture is frequently interrupted, and most of the local students never speak up during class. Instead, office hours and meetings outside of class are the best way to get your questions answered.

10:30 After lecture, I head to the library’s study space in LG4. I have ninety minutes before my next class, which I mainly used to study for the Foreign Service Officer Test, catches up on lecture notes, or looking up cat videos.

LG4 is quiet, has comfy chairs, floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the bay,  and plenty of outlets... what more could you ask for

12:00 Chinese for Non-Chinese Background Students level 7 begins.  HKUST’s Language Department is working on adapting the Chinese language classes for non-local students. It’s a bit of a work in progress, because students from the US generally have very different experience from Indonesian or Korean students. At times, this class is incredibly frustrating; lectures are only twice a week, there is very little opportunity to speak in class, we are responsible for learning roughly one hundred vocabulary words a week, and I often feel like I’m in over my head. However, my classmates are absolutely wonderful and friendly, our professor is a sweetheart and funny, and I am slowly growing my Chinese vocabulary. Hong Kong isn’t the ideal place to study Chinese for a number of reasons, but I keep sticking with it because language classes are a fantastic ways to connect to a culture and make new friends!

2:00 Depending on what day of the week it is, I generally have several hours off in the afternoon. In addition to a quick workout and/or nap, this is the main period I use to work on some of my class projects. In addition to the midterm and final exams (which are slightly terrifying and nearly always graded on a bell-curve), most classes assign a long-term group project or a paper, or sometimes both. In my Personalized Medicine course, student groups are responsible for diagnosing patients in weekly case studies and presenting the genetic origins of the disease.  Additionally, we were individually assigned a genetic disease that we needed to characterize and identify a series of five SNPs that could be used as a genetic test for the disease. Similarly to Madison, professors emphasize using primary research, interpreting technical data, and presenting your findings in a clear and informative way. Ooh! And lunch! I tend to spring for a nice lunch, because by this point I'm ravenous. I recommend Ebenezer's falafel gyro or Milano's create your own salad.

I'm usually also knitting during class. As long as you are in lecture and paying attention, the professors don't seem to mind. Also, I've heard rumors that there isn't really central heating in Hong Kong... so I need to prepare. 


5:00 I head out to evening lecture. On Wednesdays, this is my Community & Cultural Identity class, which is by far my favorite class I’ve taken so far. The professor is knowledgeable, funny, and really tries to engage the class. Using different perspectives from each of the social sciences, the course analyzes what how community and culture have evolved over time, and in particular how it impacts minorities in Hong Kong. It’s been interesting to get the Hong Kong perspective on migration, race relations, US immigration policy, and the recent protests. As one of two American students in the class, it’s been especially challenging. Trying to condense hundreds of years of racism down to three sentences is tough, as is explaining the background to anti-Chinese laws in the 20th century, and the limitations of the current US political system, but it has definitely been rewarding.  If you want a deeper look at Hong Kong history, culture, and identity definitely take this course!

We were also required to complete some volunteer work for this class. I worked with Caritas, a Catholic charity that works with underprivileged locals and Pakistani immigrants to increase access to resources and education. Above is a picture of the apartment complex that many Pakistani families lived in, but are now being forced out of. We helped with an education campaign to help these families find new housing.

6:30-7:00 Dinner time! Or, if it is Wednesday, I run to catch a bus to get to the subway to head to the IFC in Central to grab some coffee and chat with other knitters. Every other weeknight I usually head back down towards the dorms and stop by Seafront for a bowl of noodles. I'm not a fan of their rice-based foods, but the noodles are pretty good, especially with a liberal dose of chili sauce. 

8:00 Back in the room, for some more FSOT studying. I'm a big fan of the Hong Kong Public Library, and usually have a stack of books on various topics to choose from. Also, the Dane County Public Library System has an e-book lending program, which has been a fantastic resource for me while I'm abroad. I really enjoyed reading Why Nations Fail by Daron Acemoglu and James Robinson, and found it pretty helpful on the exam. 

I'm also trying to catch up on some classics... college really cuts into your reading time.

9:30 Depending on how my week has been going (and how hungry I am) I may go on a half-price sushi run. In the Hang Hau mall, there is a sushi restaurant/ vendor that marks down all of their products after 9pm. Given that Hong Kong is a former fishing village, that the shop is only a fifteen minute bus ride away, and that I can get a full platter of good sushi for less than $10, its a pretty good deal.

11:00 Get ready to go to sleep... this usually involves more cat videos. 

1:00 AM Some group of students outside our dorm begins yelling/singing/chanting. This happens nearly every night without fail. I'm not really sure why... some times its obviously exchange students coming back from a night out, but other times it is student organizations calling out slogans in Cantonese. At any rate, once this dies down, it is quiet for the rest of the night, and I can rest up for the next day's adventures.

Group cheers are strangely popular on campus. In this video, three business student associations battle in a clap off. 

Not every day is a huge adventure or pilgrimage to some far-flung island, but I'm really enjoying my little routine here in Hong Kong. Some things are familiar and remind me of home, but everything is just different enough to remind me how far I've come, and how little time I have. It feels like midterms just finished, and now I'm rushing to finish a variety of final projects. Truly, time flies when you are having fun!


Friday, November 7, 2014

Hiking in Hong Kong

When I first imagined life in Hong Kong, I pictured a huge modern city, endless baskets of dim sum, and malls every few blocks. When I arrived, I was pleasantly surprised at how much green space is built into the city.  


HKUST campus is especially beautiful, as it is built on a wooded mountainside overlooking Clearwater Bay. The picture below is was taken just down the hill from my dorm. It's wonderful!


There are lots of parks scattered about the city too! Victoria Park is one of the largest, and is frequented by elderly people practicing Tai-chi, Indonesian domestic workers relaxing and having picnics on their day off, and is frequently decorated for Chinese holidays. Tamar Park (pictured below) is also frequented by locals, especially during the Occupy Central protests because it is right next to the government offices. 


Beyond hedges and public parks, Hong Kong also has dozens of gorgeous beaches, which are perfect for a day of napping and studying. I like visiting Discovery Bay on Lantau Island on days when I don't have class. 

When I need to escape the crowds and head further afield, I love journeying to Sai Kung and hiking through the Sai Kung East County Park. The hikes vary from easy hour jaunts through the woods, to all day mountain trekking around the reservoir. 



Last week I joined up with a group of exchange students and did an epic 6 hour hike to the Tai Shing Stream. I don't think we ever actually found the stream, but we did run into some feral cows, gorgeous mountaintop views of Shenzhen, and a waterfall, so it was worth it. 






One of my favorite things about being here for a year is that I know I've got plenty of time to see and do anything I want.  I appreciate having the opportunity to explore at my own pace, not being afraid to get temporarily misplaced (because you are never truly lost), and finding adventure in unexpected places. I'm already a quarter of the way through my time in Hong Kong, and already it has been such an enriching experience. I cannot wait to see what the future brings!