Hong Kong University of Science and Technology (also known as the University of Stress and Tension) is one of the world's leading academic institutions, and is widely recognized as one of the top universities in Asia. Their science, engineering, and business programs are incredibly well respected, and anyone admitted to the school should be proud. That being said, there is absolutely no reason that any UW-Madison student should feel unprepared or unwelcome on this campus. Below are five tips I've learned during my transition into life at HKUST.
1. Don't stress over enrollment.
Unlike Madison, where you have the ability to select courses months ahead of the beginning of the semester, here at HKUST, everyone enrolls the week before classes start. Seats are often limited, but throughout the enrollment period and first two weeks of class, students are constantly adding and dropping courses, so don't worry if you end up on the wait list. However, I have heard that laboratory classes and math courses are especially difficult to get into, so plan accordingly. Additionally, if you are planning on enrolling in any upper level courses, be prepared to submit special enrollment authorization requests proving that you have completed the necessary prerequisites. For example, I needed to explain that I have already taken courses in molecular biology (biochemistry), microbiology, and introductory genetics to enroll in my 4000-level plant biotechnology course. Also, while HKUST officially states that all courses are taught in English, I ran into a number of courses offered by the Humanities Department that were only taught in Cantonese or Mandarin, so double check the requirements before enrolling!
2. Don't stress about transferring your credits.
I recommend talking with your advisor(s) before you leave for HKUST, and creating a general plan for the types of courses you hope to take while abroad. While course offerings differ from semester to semester, and sometimes you need to make last-minute changes, it is nice to know some general requirements for courses within your major. If, for whatever reason your first advisor doesn't seem willing or able to help, don't be afraid to reach out to other advisors within the department. Remember, everyone at UW-Madison wants you to succeed, and it is generally recognized that the courses offered at HKUST are roughly equivalent to UW-Madison courses. However, if you are really worried, take a look at list of previously approved course transfers on the IAP website.
3. Remember: English is the official language, not the first language.
HKUST is a wonderfully diverse campus with students and faculty from around the world. Everyone has different backgrounds, perspectives, and strengths, and I think that adds a lot to the campus community. And, while English is the official classroom language, it is pretty much everyone's second (or third or fourth) language. All of the professors are proficient in English, however, the can get flustered in front of a classroom of 70 students. Be patient, and don't be afraid to ask for clarification. Outside of class, it seems like most conversations are conducted in a variety of languages, including, but not limited to, English. Emails, event advertisements, meetings in the dorms, and casual conversations will always be in Chinese (usually Cantonese), but often include English translations. I try to remember that this is all a part of the Hong Kong experience, and don't allow it to affect my mood. No one is intentionally excluding me, they are simply more comfortable speaking in Chinese.
4. Get over the awkwardness and talk to people.
Yes, it is weird to get up and introduce yourself to a stranger. I get it. There are a few tricks to making this less awkward (open with a question, ask for a suggestion, comment on the weather, etc) but by and large I find the entire process of making new friends uncomfortable, and that's okay. I don't need to be best friends with everyone, but having one or two friends in each class makes my life much easier and less stressful. Of course, HKUST has some unique challenges: the dorm room doors are too heavy to block open, it is difficult to break join a Cantonese conversation, and there isn't really a good coffee shop hangout on campus, however none of these are insurmountable. I find that a smile, a bit of humor, and an honest desire to hear about other peoples' lives works wonders. Also, if you are looking to make local friends, you aren't going to find them at Lan Kwai Fong, go explore some other neighborhoods!
5. Schedule time for yourself.
Being an exchange student is stressful. Adjusting to a new culture (along with taking challenging courses, keeping up with all of the administrative requirements, applying for internships and jobs, and trying to develop a social life!) is difficult. I try to keep all of the craziness in balance by taking time to relax, reflect, and renew my energy. For me, this could be an half-hour work out mid-day to psych myself up for my 5 PM class, a fresh cup of fair trade coffee from my french press in the morning, sitting down to write a journal entry (or blog post!), or taking a book out to the beach for some reading. I also limit my time spent on social media or skyping with friends back home. I find that if I am constantly checking Facebook or calling home more than once or twice a week, I become homesick and stress myself out more.
That's it for now! I'm still learning as I go along, but I'm having a wonderful time. People have been wonderful and welcoming, I'm excited about a number of my classes, and Hong Kong is a fascinating place to be living right now.
Thursday, September 25, 2014
Tuesday, September 16, 2014
Welcome to Hong Kong!
So... I should have probably written this last week, or the week before. Its nearly a month into the school year, and already I don't know where the time has gone. It is insane. Anyway... I'm going to try to capture some of my favorite moments and first impressions of the city this week, and next week post more about my school.
1. Arriving in Guangzhou after a 40 hour train ride was... difficult. I was exhausted, smelly, unable to communicate with anyone, and incredibly frustrated. Thankfully, within a couple of hours I was on a quiet, clean, and spacious bullet train to Hong Kong. I love bullet trains... this felt like heaven.
2. My joy was made complete after arriving at HKUST, taking a shower, and finally having a bed that was not only not on a moving train, but was also far enough away from the ceiling so I can sit up in bed. Its the little things.
3. There are restaurants, coffee shops, and malls EVERYWHERE! It is kind of glorious. At any given moment, I have access to caffein, air conditioning, and all kinds of food. One thing I've really missed in past trips to the mainland is having access to a variety of cuisines. The ability to eat authentic and local Chinese food AND tacos AND Pad Thai AND hipster salads AND Italian pasta AND fusion food is amazing.
4. While I came here knowing that Cantonese is the main dialect, I wasn't expecting Cantonese to be so completely incomprehensible, Mandarin Chinese to be so little spoken, and for English to be so wide spread. Locals (with the major exception of cab drivers) are very likely going to be able to speak excellent English.
5. If you need to interact with someone who doesn't speak English (or Mandarin) always fall back on pointing, body language, smiling, and laughing. Even if you don't get your point across, you will at least make a positive (if strange) impression.
6. You can usually guess at how wealthy someone is by their watch. No one has cars, apartments are small, so lots of wealthy Hong Kong natives spend a significant amount of money on watches and jewelry. On campus, backpacks and shoes usually are a good proxy.
7. While the library on campus is nice for quick study/AC breaks, the Central Public Library is absolutely stunning. It is centrally located, near a subway (MTR) station, has lots of books, computers, magazines, tables, seats, and outlets! Best of all, if you are like me, it is almost completely silent, despite being very busy.
8. The subway! This is, hands down, the best public transportation system I have ever experienced. While I do wish that the buses that connect the campus to the city ran more frequently, the subway is flawless... even during rush hour.
9. At first, I wasn't sold on Cantonese food. But I think that had more to do with the poorly prepared cafeteria food than the cuisine itself. Out it the city, I am overwhelmed by all of the amazing smells and foods that I want to try.
10. However, I have found some unexpected (and rather unpleasant) surprises. On campus there is a cafeteria that lets you choose what ingredients to put into a bowl of noodle soup, and usually I order a handful of fish balls, some zucchini, some bok choi, and maybe some tofu. Except, I don't know any Cantonese... so I usually point at the small sample displayed on the counter. Unfortunately, I didn't point at the fish balls (which are like ping pong balls, small and white), I pointed at the cheese balls. In my defense, they look nearly identical, except for the small orange speckles. But they definitely don't taste the same.
11. Hong Kong milk tea is significantly less sweet than the Taiwanese milk tea (with tapioca pearls) served in the mainland. I'm guessing the British influence has something to do with this.
12. Paying for things with coins is weird. I am constantly forgetting about my coins, and now I have a pretty good stockpile. Hong Kong has a different currency than the mainland, and so they issue different bills and coins, which seem to be (surprise!) modeled after British currency.
13. One more colonial leftover: they drive on the left side of the road! I am always forgetting about this, and looking the wrong way before crossing the street. Fortunately, the Hong Kong city planners have prepared for foreign tourists by helpfully panting "Look Left" or "Look Right" on nearly every crosswalk.
14. Hong Kong covers a relatively small, mountainous area, so everything is built vertically instead of horizontally. There are lots and lots of stairs and elevators to navigate every day.
15. People actually wait in lines here! It is amazing, one of those small things that I didn't really appreciate before.
16. No one pays any attention to me! I'm not called out, no one stares, and I have yet to hear anyone call me a lao wai.
17. This is a fantastic city to explore on any budget, but it is very easy to go over budget. I'm trying hard to be aware of my own limits... and avoiding most of the cool stationary stores or yarn stores around town.
18. There is so much to see and do here! I've been "station hopping", i.e. picking a random subway station, getting off, and exploring new neighborhoods. Thus far, I've covered a lot of central Hong Kong Island and a bit of Kowloon, but I hope to begin venturing out into the New Territories this weekend.
19. Monsoons are pretty common this time of year, so the weather seems to jump from beautiful, sunny and warm, to pouring rain and wicked winds pretty quickly. You need a good rain jacket or a sturdy umbrella to stay dry.
20. I've also begun switching over from using my nice (but bulky) camera to my iPod. Logistically, in a city as crowded as Hong Kong, this is easier. I also want to try and make a point of distinguishing myself from the tourists. I enjoy doing tourist-y things, but I also want to be respectful of the others around me as I begin venturing out into less well-known areas. That being said, feel free to follow me on Instagram and take a more informal view of the city.
1. Arriving in Guangzhou after a 40 hour train ride was... difficult. I was exhausted, smelly, unable to communicate with anyone, and incredibly frustrated. Thankfully, within a couple of hours I was on a quiet, clean, and spacious bullet train to Hong Kong. I love bullet trains... this felt like heaven.
2. My joy was made complete after arriving at HKUST, taking a shower, and finally having a bed that was not only not on a moving train, but was also far enough away from the ceiling so I can sit up in bed. Its the little things.
3. There are restaurants, coffee shops, and malls EVERYWHERE! It is kind of glorious. At any given moment, I have access to caffein, air conditioning, and all kinds of food. One thing I've really missed in past trips to the mainland is having access to a variety of cuisines. The ability to eat authentic and local Chinese food AND tacos AND Pad Thai AND hipster salads AND Italian pasta AND fusion food is amazing.
4. While I came here knowing that Cantonese is the main dialect, I wasn't expecting Cantonese to be so completely incomprehensible, Mandarin Chinese to be so little spoken, and for English to be so wide spread. Locals (with the major exception of cab drivers) are very likely going to be able to speak excellent English.
5. If you need to interact with someone who doesn't speak English (or Mandarin) always fall back on pointing, body language, smiling, and laughing. Even if you don't get your point across, you will at least make a positive (if strange) impression.
6. You can usually guess at how wealthy someone is by their watch. No one has cars, apartments are small, so lots of wealthy Hong Kong natives spend a significant amount of money on watches and jewelry. On campus, backpacks and shoes usually are a good proxy.
7. While the library on campus is nice for quick study/AC breaks, the Central Public Library is absolutely stunning. It is centrally located, near a subway (MTR) station, has lots of books, computers, magazines, tables, seats, and outlets! Best of all, if you are like me, it is almost completely silent, despite being very busy.
8. The subway! This is, hands down, the best public transportation system I have ever experienced. While I do wish that the buses that connect the campus to the city ran more frequently, the subway is flawless... even during rush hour.
9. At first, I wasn't sold on Cantonese food. But I think that had more to do with the poorly prepared cafeteria food than the cuisine itself. Out it the city, I am overwhelmed by all of the amazing smells and foods that I want to try.
10. However, I have found some unexpected (and rather unpleasant) surprises. On campus there is a cafeteria that lets you choose what ingredients to put into a bowl of noodle soup, and usually I order a handful of fish balls, some zucchini, some bok choi, and maybe some tofu. Except, I don't know any Cantonese... so I usually point at the small sample displayed on the counter. Unfortunately, I didn't point at the fish balls (which are like ping pong balls, small and white), I pointed at the cheese balls. In my defense, they look nearly identical, except for the small orange speckles. But they definitely don't taste the same.
11. Hong Kong milk tea is significantly less sweet than the Taiwanese milk tea (with tapioca pearls) served in the mainland. I'm guessing the British influence has something to do with this.
12. Paying for things with coins is weird. I am constantly forgetting about my coins, and now I have a pretty good stockpile. Hong Kong has a different currency than the mainland, and so they issue different bills and coins, which seem to be (surprise!) modeled after British currency.
13. One more colonial leftover: they drive on the left side of the road! I am always forgetting about this, and looking the wrong way before crossing the street. Fortunately, the Hong Kong city planners have prepared for foreign tourists by helpfully panting "Look Left" or "Look Right" on nearly every crosswalk.
14. Hong Kong covers a relatively small, mountainous area, so everything is built vertically instead of horizontally. There are lots and lots of stairs and elevators to navigate every day.
15. People actually wait in lines here! It is amazing, one of those small things that I didn't really appreciate before.
16. No one pays any attention to me! I'm not called out, no one stares, and I have yet to hear anyone call me a lao wai.
17. This is a fantastic city to explore on any budget, but it is very easy to go over budget. I'm trying hard to be aware of my own limits... and avoiding most of the cool stationary stores or yarn stores around town.
18. There is so much to see and do here! I've been "station hopping", i.e. picking a random subway station, getting off, and exploring new neighborhoods. Thus far, I've covered a lot of central Hong Kong Island and a bit of Kowloon, but I hope to begin venturing out into the New Territories this weekend.
19. Monsoons are pretty common this time of year, so the weather seems to jump from beautiful, sunny and warm, to pouring rain and wicked winds pretty quickly. You need a good rain jacket or a sturdy umbrella to stay dry.
20. I've also begun switching over from using my nice (but bulky) camera to my iPod. Logistically, in a city as crowded as Hong Kong, this is easier. I also want to try and make a point of distinguishing myself from the tourists. I enjoy doing tourist-y things, but I also want to be respectful of the others around me as I begin venturing out into less well-known areas. That being said, feel free to follow me on Instagram and take a more informal view of the city.
Saturday, September 6, 2014
Tashi Delek བཀྲ་ཤིས་བདེ་ལེགས། from Garze!
Alright. I'm sorry that it's taken me so long to write this, but, in my defense, the past few weeks have been absolutely insane. I've accomplished a couple of life-long goals, and bumbled into several adventures that I hadn't anticipated. I've been elated, exhausted, and ill. Travelled thousands of kilometers (both horizontally and vertically) on buses, cars, bikes, bullet and regular trains dragging over 70 pounds of luggage. And somehow managed to land safely at Hong Kong University of Science and Technology. But I'm not going to really go into my experiences at HKUST yet. For one, I've really only had a couple of classes, so I don't have a feel for how the year will be academically. Additionally, I have only just begun to explore Hong Kong. There is just so much to talk about, so it deserves its own post.
When I was in middle school, I developed a minor obsession with Tibetan people, Tibetan Buddhism, and the regional politics. While I won't go into the Tibetan independence issue here, there is ongoing conflict and rising tension in all areas where Tibetans are concentrated (here, here, and here). Partially because of this, the Chinese government has prohibited foreigners from entering the Tibetan Autonomous Region UNLESS they are with an approved, arranged tour group. These tours are expensive, limited, and very tightly controlled... in essence, ensuring that visitors have little to no unsupervised interaction with native Tibetans. My situation is further complicated by the fact that the Chinese government has repeatedly refused requests by our consulate to allow Foreign Service Officers into the region... so they probably wouldn't be happy about me entering the region.
Fortunately, not all Tibetans live in Tibet. There is a sizable population in Chengdu living in the aptly named Tibetan Quarter. There are lots of shops and a few Tibetan restaurants, however everything has a heavy focus on religious iconography, rather than handicrafts or gifts. This is, in part, because many monks migrate to Chengdu to pick up the supplies to refurbish or establish their own local temple. So, if you are ever in need of a six foot tall Buddha statue or a set of Tibetan monk robes, check out this district. Below is Maddy, my roommate this summer holding up the prayer flags that she bought for roughly $1 by the major intersection at the center of the district.
After my internship at the consulate ended, I traveled to the Ganzi (or Garze in Tibetan) Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in northwest Sichuan. Although not given as much autonomy (or attention) as the TAR, the Autonomous Prefecture was set up in recognition of the fact that the majority of the citizens in this part of the province are ethnically Tibetan. Don't ask me why they weren't just lumped into the TAR... I have no idea. At any rate, foreigners are basically free to travel to any city within the prefecture that has been "opened to tourists," meaning there are "adequate facilities to house guests." If you try to travel to cities that are not yet opened, you run the risk of being forcibly removed by the police, and yes, this does happen. I talked to one guy who was told to leave a city he was trying to stay in overnight as he motorbiked from Xi'an to Tagong in Ganzi. Also, keep in mind that the government reserves the right to forbid entry to foreigners at any time, without prior notice... this has happened multiple times in the past.
When I was in middle school, I developed a minor obsession with Tibetan people, Tibetan Buddhism, and the regional politics. While I won't go into the Tibetan independence issue here, there is ongoing conflict and rising tension in all areas where Tibetans are concentrated (here, here, and here). Partially because of this, the Chinese government has prohibited foreigners from entering the Tibetan Autonomous Region UNLESS they are with an approved, arranged tour group. These tours are expensive, limited, and very tightly controlled... in essence, ensuring that visitors have little to no unsupervised interaction with native Tibetans. My situation is further complicated by the fact that the Chinese government has repeatedly refused requests by our consulate to allow Foreign Service Officers into the region... so they probably wouldn't be happy about me entering the region.
Fortunately, not all Tibetans live in Tibet. There is a sizable population in Chengdu living in the aptly named Tibetan Quarter. There are lots of shops and a few Tibetan restaurants, however everything has a heavy focus on religious iconography, rather than handicrafts or gifts. This is, in part, because many monks migrate to Chengdu to pick up the supplies to refurbish or establish their own local temple. So, if you are ever in need of a six foot tall Buddha statue or a set of Tibetan monk robes, check out this district. Below is Maddy, my roommate this summer holding up the prayer flags that she bought for roughly $1 by the major intersection at the center of the district.
After my internship at the consulate ended, I traveled to the Ganzi (or Garze in Tibetan) Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in northwest Sichuan. Although not given as much autonomy (or attention) as the TAR, the Autonomous Prefecture was set up in recognition of the fact that the majority of the citizens in this part of the province are ethnically Tibetan. Don't ask me why they weren't just lumped into the TAR... I have no idea. At any rate, foreigners are basically free to travel to any city within the prefecture that has been "opened to tourists," meaning there are "adequate facilities to house guests." If you try to travel to cities that are not yet opened, you run the risk of being forcibly removed by the police, and yes, this does happen. I talked to one guy who was told to leave a city he was trying to stay in overnight as he motorbiked from Xi'an to Tagong in Ganzi. Also, keep in mind that the government reserves the right to forbid entry to foreigners at any time, without prior notice... this has happened multiple times in the past.
Anyway, I took an awful 8 hour bus ride from Chengdu to Kangding, the largest city in the prefecture, and largely regarded as the major starting point for all Tibetan adventures. There is exactly one two-lane highway that connects the two cities, and it winds around some of the most incredible mountainside scenery I've ever seen. At least, it is gorgeous upon reflection... because for most of the trip, I was incredibly uncomfortable and ill. August is the end of the rainy season, and so the road had been heavily damaged by landslides, and torn apart by construction projects. At one point, I realized that we had driven over four hours without once driving in a straight line over smooth roads. Needless to say, by the time I got off in Kangding, I was very excited.
All of the travel guides recommend spending a few days in Kangding, not because it is an especially interesting city, but because you need to acclimate yourself to the elevation before heading any further out into the region. In and of itself, Kangding is pretty mediocre. Beyond climbing the Paoma Mountain (famous in China because of the Kangding Love Song) and checking out the Tibetan gifts (which are pretty much exactly the same things on offer in Chengdu) there isn't a whole lot to do. I split my time between hiking and exploring, and hanging out at the Zhilam Hostel, where I stayed. This is an excellent little hostel located up above the city, run by an American couple, employing lots of locals (who are incredibly kind and smart, you should definitely hang out with them and talk in a mixture of English, Chinese, and Tibetan!), and it serves coffee! What more could you possibly want?
Next, I needed to find a driver who would be willing to take me to the town of Tagong. While the town is open to tourists, it is slightly off the beaten path, so there aren't any busses that go there. On my way there, I paid for a guy to drive me and his sister (girlfriend? I wasn't really clear on this... he spoke Chinese with a thick accent). I later found out I had been fleeced, but the ride was relatively comfortable, and the scenery so amazing that I really didn't care.
Tagong is located in a beautiful stretch of grasslands, home to actual real-live yak herders, surrounded by some of the highest mountains in Sichuan, and hosts one of the most important monasteries in the region. It is also incredibly high up the the mountains, roughly 3,500 km. If you look on the map, Kangding and Tagong are fairly close together... however, even with my driver speeding basically the entire way there, it took three hours for us to navigate the winding roads up the mountainside... not that I'm complaining. I was glued to my window most of the drive.
Here, I stayed at the Khampa Cafe owned by a American-Tibetan couple who work to support the local community through treks, trips, and tourism. Again, this was a wonderful experience that I whole-heartedly recommend to any interested travelers... and they have coffee!
And, as much as I had a wonderful time here... the trip was slightly troubling. Twice on my trip in, my bus was pulled over as policemen boarded to examine all of the passengers. Kangding is becoming increasingly developed as more and more Han Chinese move west, creating a city that is more "Chinese" than "Tibetan." I heard from many travelers that this is much worse in Lhasa.
I met lots of friendly travelers from around Europe and a few from the States, and none of us seemed to face many problems with locals. In fact, most people (outside of the super-touristy areas) were very eager to meet and talk to foreign visitors. However, they didn't seem to like the Chinese visitors very much. In Tagong especially, each day a new tour bus would deposit 20-30 new tourists armed with trekking packs and DSLR cameras. They swarmed the temple, the stupa on the hill, the touristy horse-riding area, and the shops, proudly finishing their day with hundreds of impressive photos, a new strand of beads, and a fine woolen scarf (like those patterned pashmina scarves you can buy ANYWHERE... I have no idea how they ended up here or why they were so popular). They climb back onto their bus, and continue on their journey, leaving the disgruntled Tibetans to pick up the bottles and wrappers left over their streets and sacred hills.
Also... you may have noticed that most of my pictures don't include people. The Tibetan people themselves are fascinating. Everyone wears a mixture of traditional wool coats, skirts, turquoise and coral jewelry, and various Buddhist symbols, along with jeans, nikes, and fake Rolex watches. Many people ride motorbikes that are a cross between a dirt bike and a motorcycle. Each morning, most of the elderly people in town migrate to the temple and form a clockwise procession, rotating the prayer wheels, and praying over their beads. Many of the children speak a smattering of English, while the elders don't speak Mandarin. People still live out on the plains raising yaks, but many of the younger generation hope to learn English and attend university.
I have talked in the past about how uncomfortable I feel about being stared at, talked about, or asked for a photo. However, I can reasonably expect this behavior to end once I return home, to my own community. For the Tibetans that live in the tourism cities, this is their life. I can't imagine what it is like to be constantly bombarded with curious tourists every day. What's more, Tibetan women are incredibly modest and reserved... and they were often visibly uncomfortable with tourists asking (or, more often, not asking) for their photo. When I openly carried my camera in town, I almost never had anyone come up and talk to me. However, some of my favorite moments came when I had the camera tucked away, and I was simply interacting with these people as a fellow human.
For example, on my first day in Tagong, I saw a sign for yak's milk yogurt, and decided to give it a try. I passed an incredibly old Tibetan woman on my way inside the building and gently said hello to her. Once I made it inside, it wasn't all that clear where I was supposed to head to find the restaurant, so I took a guess and began climbing the stairs. I soon heard the old lady yelling after me in Tibetan, and quickly clambered down and tried to explain myself. After both English and Chinese failed, I fell back to pantomiming eating, which miraculously worked. The lady smiled and lead me into what appeared to be her living room and began scooping out a dixie cup of yogurt topped with a hearty pile of sugar, and handed me a pair of chopsticks. As I sat on her couch, attempting to eat yogurt with two sticks, her daughter and granddaughter came into the house and began eating with me. The daughter spoke a bit of Chinese, so I managed to figure out how much to pay the family and express my thanks, but mostly I just enjoyed watching the three of them interact. And I'm fairly sure they enjoyed watching me bumble around.
While I definitely consider this to be a defining experience in my life... I hesitate to call it a positive experience. As with so much in the world, the Tibetan people are complicated, they live in a complex society further confounded by greater national and international forces. There are not easy answers, and there is no easy way to process everything I've experienced. Hopefully, someday, I will be able to return and explore these issues in greater depth. At any rate, I will leave you with some prayer flags from the top of the Paoma Mountain. It is said that with every wave, the prayers and blessings printed onto the flag flow out into the universe, spreading good will and compassion.
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